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nucleus nucleus is offline
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Posts: 53
Default refrigerator repair

hey Meat Plow, thank you for your reply. i performed the test you
suggested, turned refrig on for 5 minutes, unplugged it, plugged
it back in, the compressor would not start until after 3 cycles of
the thermal overload protector. i deduct this means there is
adequate freon (it only has 4.000 oz of R134a), especially since
the compressor outlet temp is so low (possibly meaning that
line is not plugged. (and i have read that plugged lines are rare.)

i did not mention in my post, that over a year ago, the compressor
began having a rather loud noisy startup, which quietened after
about a minute. at that time, i asked a refrig tech about possible
noisy reed valves, and he suggested i continue to run the refrig
until it quit. so that is where it stands now, still with a noisy
startup, but with inadequate cooling.

i tentatively conclude that i need to order a new compressor and
drier.

May 12, 8:36*am, Meat Plow wrote:
On Mon, 11 May 2009 19:55:28 -0400, Hipupchuck
wrote:

nucleus wrote:
have 12 year old kenmore (whirlpool) refrigerator (top freezer)
style, that is struggling to keep designed temperatures. since
a few days ago, the freezer temp will only get down to 26 degrees
F and the refrigerator temp is about 50 degrees F at best.


have done significant troubleshooting. no problem with evaporator
coils or defrost thermostat or defrost heater or refrigerator defrost
timer. *condensor coils are clean, both fans operating properly.


temp of compressor tube outlet (to condenser coil) *is 109 degrees
F and temp of compressor tube inlet is 84 degrees F. *temp of
tube after capillary expansion just before it goes into evaporator
is barely below freezing. *i think it should be much lower than
that.


i am trying to decide if i have a failing compressor or a plugged
freon line line somewhere. *there is no evidence of any freon
leaks.


i can email pictures if anyone can help. *thanks.

Your compressor is worn out.


Plugged freon line would result in a higher than normal high side
pressure and lower than normal suction side pressure depending
on where the obstruction is.

The average evaporator temp is around -20F depending on where you take
the reading, how long the unit has been operating, and what type of
freon is used.

You can figure out how much cooling capacity you have by calculating
the superheat in the condenser. Google it, I used to know it in my
head pretty much but it's been decades since I've had to use it. I
usually can tell by just feeling. The compressor outlet should be too
hot to hold with your fingers (much warmer than 109F) under normal
operating conditions. Either you have a failing compressor which could
be noisy or you have insufficient freon. Remember you don't have to be
able to see where it is leaking and it can leak an ounce or two a
month and you'd never know it until one morning you wake up and your
ice is partially nelted.

You need to get some gauges on it to be sure what kind of pressure you
have on the high side, I can almost assure you it's too low. You can
unplug it then plug it right back in and if the compressor restarts
it's low on freon. I would suspect that before a worn compressor
especially if the compressor isn't making strange noises. And also
enough freon can leak out and you'd never know where it comes from.

Depending on the internal size there isn't a whole lot of freon in
these things to begin with and it doesn't take the loss of very much
to cause the exact problems you describe.

I'd put a tap on the suction line (returning from the evaporator) and
put a few ounces of whatever flavor freon (probably R12) in. Then test
the temps. If it comes back to life you have a leak. Then you need to
take wifey out to pick out a new fridge.