"Jon Danniken" wrote in
:

"Pat" wrote:
[snip]

TV and other entertainment. The generation that worked on their cars
did not spend the weekend watching TV or playing video games.

More like it's because people are too lazy to actually do work
anymore, let alone actually *learn* about something that requires it.

This is linked with a major decline in common sense, the main culprit
of which is a steadfast refusal to accept reality over fantasy in our
society.

Jon



I agree with you on the lazy people thing Jon. There's a lot of things
people don't do that they used to do without thinking twice. Some examples:

(Oh, and don't forget the Dealer Only $ecial tools often required.)

--

I still change my own oil because I want to know what kind of oil is going
in it. I would have no idea if Econo-Change is putting in Castrol or
Walmart Super Tech oil. The last oil change I just did cost me $15 for a
filter and 5qts of like Castrol. I could have gone up to a local chain shop
here and got an oil change and filter for $13. People see cheaper and don't
have to do **** and assume it's a no-brainer.

--

There are so many transverse engines these days. And they make what used to
be a simple task a major event.

For example, on my Mitsu 3000GT the water pump went. On GM pickups I used
to have you could get one for 20 bucks, loosen easily accessable bolts
right on the front of the engine and swapo. Heck, those older vehicles, if
it were raining you could get in the engine campartment with a drop light
and close the hood to stay dry :-) OK, so mine weren't 454's or the like.

On the Mitsu so much crap has to be removed it's not funny. Transverse
mounted, no room to work, Even the dealer shop spec is like 5hrs. Pump is
on the side of course. One of the things that has to be removed is timing
belt covers. Might as well replace that too if you're near some 60k
interval.

--

Oil pan gasket leaking on another vehicle. Used to be a piece of cake.
Loosen the bolts, drop, new gasket, put back. Not even a 6pk job. Now
sometimes you gotta loosen motor mounts and/or jack engines and/or jack
transmissions and/or disconnect exhaust pipes or some other lines.

--

Change spark plugs..used to be a) take em out b) put new ones in.

On a particular transverse engine.

1. Remove Center Cover from Front Bank Valve Cover

This plastic plate is held in by the 8 bolts at its edges and covers the
front spark plug wires/wells. Use either a large Phillips screwdriver or a
10mm socket. Picture shown with plate removed.


2. Remove Wiring Harnesses from Left Side of Intake Plenum

Two 10mm bolts hold the bracket to the left side of the intake plenum.
Remove the bolts and push the connectors away from the plenum. It is not
necessary to unplug the connectors.


3. Remove the Front Wiring Harness Rail


Two 10mm bolts hold the wiring rail to the front of the intake plenum.
Remove the bolts and pull the rail away from the plenum.

4. Remove the Accelerator Cable Bracket


Two 10mm bolts (5 N*m) hold the accelerator cable to the rear of the intake
plenum. Remove the bolts and pull the bracket away from the plenum. Leave
the accelerator cable attached to the throttle body. Note when reinstalling
the bracket, adjust the bracket position so that there is minimal play in
the cable, but be sure that the throttle plate is completely closed when
you are not pulling on the cable!

5. Disconnect the Intake Pipe, PCV Hose,
Fuel Pressure Vacuum Hose, And Brake Booster Hose

---Loosen the two hose clamps at the ends of the intake pipe.
---Remove the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Hose from the intake
pipe. If it is stuck, twist the end near the intake pipe carefully before
pulling it off.
---Disconnect both ends of the intake pipe and lift it out of the engine
bay. The fittings are pretty tight, so you may have to wiggle it a bit to
get it loose.
---Remove the brake booster vacuum hose by pinching the clamp to loosen it
and then slide the hose off the nipple on the plenum.
---Remove the vacuum hose that goes to the fuel pressure regulator by
sliding the hose off of the protrusion on the intake plenum. As with other
hoses, if it is stuck, grasp the hose near the end and carefully twist it
about the protrusion so as to break it free. It will then slide off.

6. Remove the Throttle Body Stay Bolt

One 12mm (18 N*m) bolt secures the rear of the throttle body to the engine.
Remove the bolt. Pretty, shiny throttle body courtesy Mopar Combustion
Chamber Cleaner (Chrysler P/N 04318001).

7. Remove the Throttle Body

Four 12mm bolts (13 N*m) attach the throttle body to the intake plenum.
Remove the bolts, and the throttle body will now be free from the plenum
and its mounting bolt. Gently pull the throttle body away from the plenum,
being careful not to lose the gasket (next step). Note that the throttle
body will still be attached to some coolant lines and some vacuum lines, so
do not attempt to remove the throttle body from the engine bay.

8. Remove the Throttle Body Gasket

The throttle body gasket is in between the throttle body and the intake
plenum. Remove it, making note of the direction in which it is installed.
Do not reinstall the used gasket - replace it with a new one!

9. Remove the Intake Plenum Stay Bolts

There are three 12mm (18 N*m) bolts that secure the rear of the intake
plenum to the engine. Remove the bolts, noting that one bolt also secures a
grounding cable to the chassis.

10. Remove the VIC Motor Wiring Harnesses

There are two wiring harnesses attached to the Variable Induction Control
(VIC) Motor. There is a silver wire clip (looks like a paper clip) that
surrounds the harness connector. Carefully remove this with a small
screwdriver. Then the harness connector will just slide off.

11. Remove the Remaining Intake Plenum Bolts

There are five more 12mm bolts (18 N*m) and two 12mm nuts (18 N*m) that
attach the intake plenum to the intake manifold. Remove the bolts and the
nuts, being careful not to let the lock washers or the nuts fall down into
the murky depths of the engine bay, lest you never see them again.

12. Lift the Intake Plenum Out of the Engine Bay

At this point, the intake plenum is not connected to the engine, so you can
simply lift it out. Do this carefully, and lift straight up until you clear
the posts on the manifold. The picture shows the plenum partially lifted
out, but not removed. You can also see the metal plenum-manifold gasket on
top of the intake manifold.

13. Remove the Intake Plenum Gasket

The intake plenum gasket lies between the manifold and the plenum and can
be removed once the plenum is removed. This gasket must be replaced
whenever the intake plenum is removed, as should all such gaskets. You now
have access to all 6 spark plugs and wires. A few points of interest and
the cylinder numbers have been labeled for reference.

14. Remove the Coil-side Connections of the Ignition Wires

Gently pull straight up. Repeat for remaining 5 cylinders. Note that the
numbers are actually printed on the engine approximately where the green
numbers are located. From the front of the car, the connections a 6, 3,
5, 2, 4, 1.

15. Remove the Plug-side Connections of the Ignition Wires

Again, gently pull straight up; repeat for remaining 5 cylinders.

16. Remove Spark Plugs

With your spark plug socket on a 6" extension attached to your socket
wrench, gently remove the spark plugs from the spark plug wells. As you
remove the spark plugs, place them somewhere where you can later remember
which plug came from which cylinder as this can help diagnose problems.
When replacing the spark plugs, tighten them to 25 N*m with your torque
wrench so you don't strip the threads!

17. Reverse the Instructions to Reinstall Everything