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[email protected] maniac@large.com is offline
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Default Building DIY pro. speakers - 500_watt_top_box.jpg (1/1)

On Wed, 25 Mar 2009 16:50:51 -0500, John Fields
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Mar 2009 11:17:36 -0500, John O'Flaherty
wrote:

On Fri, 20 Mar 2009 19:34:11 -0700, Capt. Cave Man
wrote:

On Fri, 20 Mar 2009 21:47:35 -0400, wrote:


Fairly decent cabinet design.

I hope you are using marine type plywood.

A fine grain, high density particle board might be better. I use solid
hardwoods throughout.

You should also use a thicker glue between ALL of the elements, and you
should coat the entire inside with a thick polyurethane so thick that ALL
of the sharp corners inside become rounded.


Why?


---
Air is compressible, and when there's a pressure wave which propagates
into a corner, the pressure will tend toward infinity as the wave is
squeezed into the line describing the corner, with the result that the
wood will move and, by doing so, modulate the pressure wave, creating
sidebands.


Thats funny! What audio store do you work for?

You should not assume that your max wattage is equal to the wattage
capacity stated on the driver(s).

The wiring certainly will NOT handle your claimed power handling
capacity. It will introduce distortion as power increases. You need
bigger feed lines, and they should be kept as short as can be feasibly
done.


What sort of distortion will increase with power due to small wires?


---
If the temperature of the wires is caused to change by the charge
flowing through them, then their resistance will be modulated by the
power being dissipated by the load, and distortion products will be
generated as sidebands.


Wow! Explain the fact no one can hear the tweeter protection lamp, which
changes resistance about a million times more than the feed wire can??

JF


Does that stand for Jerk-****er?

Please go away... please...