Joe wrote:

Don't even think about doing that without an impact wrench. And for
Heaven's sake always put the nuts back on dry since that friction is
all that holds them on. As cheap as compressors and air tools are
these days its foolhardy to waste time take chances not to use the
right tools. And always use a six point impact socket. But you knew
that, didn't you? Cheers,


I thank everybody who did me the courtesy of replying. I resolved the
problem today: First I tried running the mower up the car ramps and
then using the torch on them. No joy. I just couldn't put enough ass
on them to make any of them budge. So I moved on to plan B.

I laid a old blanket down in the driveway and then drove the lawn
tractor up just one ramp (under the left front wheel. Then I got off
and carefully lowered the tractor over onto its right side on the
blanket. Some gas started dripping from its cap but it was relatively
minor so I chose to ignore it. The main thing was that I now had FULL
access to the blades.

I heated them up for longer than I had tried before and then put a 6
point 1/2" drive socket wrench on them. I blocked the blade with a wood
clamp. I was then able to apply enough pressure to remove the bolts.

I then took the blades one at a time and reground the edges on my Tormek
water cooled grinder.

Previously I have only changed the oil on the tractor myself. I have
paid for the professional servicing of the machine twice and those bolts
apparently welded themselves in during or after last spring's servicing.
I just can't see paying for stuff like blades if I can do it myself...
just like changing the oil.

As for the suggestion to remove the mower deck: why? It didn't require
that and looking at the manual made the procedure look more complicated
than I wanted to try. Rolling it onto its side was much easier.


Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerd at carolina.rr.com