stryped wrote:
On Mar 16, 10:56 pm, Jon Elson wrote:
stryped wrote:
When I pulled out the plugs the best I could tell they were ok. Looked
worn. Except number 3. It looked wet but not drenched. Also, On this
plug, the porcelane on the bottom of the plug around the gap was
broken, also, the grounding part that curves over (The part you adjust
the gap) was brken in half and missing.
Cranking with no spark plugs, light vaporized mist or or something
came from most of the holes but #3 I could tell had more coming out.
It was like water or droplets as I cranked much heavier than the rest.
I took a piece of winshield washer hose and stuck it down a few of the
spark plug holes and sucked with my mouth. (Probably not smart). Never
really got much of anythign out with the exception of #3. There was
some gas in there but also a sweet taste. (Would this be antifreeze?)

IF the engine overheated and was shut down quick then you likely won't
have a problem with the bearings. Where you run into bearing problems is
in a situation where you have had antifreeze leaking into the oil for a
longer time and being run that way. The chemicals in the antifreeze
actually dissolve the metals used in the bearing inserts.

The only way to figure out if it's a gasket or a cracked head/block is
to pull the heads and look. If it is ONLY the gasket you could measure
the heads and block to see if they are both still flat on the mating
surfaces. If they are and the heads don't show damage just bolt it
together with new gaskets. Drop the oil and install a new filter and
some cheap oil. Start the engine, let it warm up, shut down then change
the oil again. Check the second batch of oil for water/coolant. If you
find some then change the oil again. The second change should have no
water/coolant in it unless you have a different leak.

One thing with many of the newer engines. The castings are THIN wall for
the most part. Even a single overheat can crack them. Look VERY close or
have a shop do crack detection (either dye or magnaflux).

--
Steve W.