On Mar 10, 9:48*pm, wrote:
On Mar 10, 3:54*pm, mac davis wrote:





On Tue, 10 Mar 2009 09:18:58 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Wally Dickerman was the person to first provide this cure for cracked
bowls. He recommended 50-50 white glue and water. I had my doubts
about the cure, but Wally has been turning three or four times as long
as I have, do I tried it on a 15 inch rough turned salad bowl that I
had planned it as a gift for a friend who had purchased a new home. I
had to purchase two gallons of white glue and put it with two gallons
of water. I soaked the bowl for a couple of days and took it out. The
crack was still open. I said to myself, Wally it didn't work. I threw
the bowl onto a pile of wood in the yard, where it was rained on for a
couple of or more. About a week later, I walked past the bowl and
noticed that the crack (which had been about 3/8" at the rim) had
completely closed up. I put it in the shed to dry before final
turning. The crack never opened up again. The friend is still using
the salad bowl (been about four years now) and it only has a fine line
where the crack had been. Just my experience.

Fred... When you dried and turned the bowl, was the wood normal, or glue
impregnated?

Just thinking back to some of my LDD experiments and trying to turn soft,
colored bowls that never went back to natural color of texture..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Hello Mac,

I don't recall any discoloring of the wood. It was a nice maple bowl.
It final turned easily with no sign if the glue.

Fred Holder
http://www.morewoodturning.net

I wrote about this a few years ago on this forum, and as it happens I
had to fix 2 bowls in this past week with my "wood soup", one just
because I was in a hurry even though I know better, where I got a
couple of checks in the lower part of a square natural edge bowl,
wrapped a water/glue soaked rag around the outside and placed another
soaked rag into the inside of the bowl, placed a plastic bag around it
and let it sit overnight, that was enough to close the checks back up
and the bowl is dry now and finished, and the wood stayed close, there
are two very narrow lines were the splits have been, but I don't think
anyone would notice with the other lines that are in the sapwood that
look much alike, anyway I saved my time spent and a piece of nice
black walnut.
The other one is a trial piece with a double wing and as it happened
there was a small twig showing close to the edge of one wing, I should
have placed a staple in the edge to make sure it wasn't going to
split, anyway the next day when I pulled it out of the paper bag to do
some more work to it had a split about 1½ long and 1/16 wide, again, I
placed a water and glue soaked rag on the outside of the wing and set
it in a plastic bag to soak for the night, the next day the split was
closed, removed it from the plastic bag and wiped it clean and it is
now drying in a brown paper bag, the split I can't find even though I
know where it was.
Again I have saved my time I did spend on this trial bowl, and a piece
of wood.
I don't do this glue thing very often as I don't usually have
splitting turnings very often, but I never let a bowl sit without
checking them especially the first couple of days, so wood isn't dry
and has sat with wide splits in them for a while.
I have always had good luck fixing the small splits when the wood is
still wet and the splits/checks are still small, works for me ;-))
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo