If you read the above posts carefully, I think you'll see that it isn't
a good idea to change the breaker without increasing the wire size,
since you are really pushing that 12 ga. wire. You didn't say how long
the run from the main disconnect to the wall receptacle is. The longer
the run, the bigger the voltage drop to the tools, particularly in
Power-up mode.
I suggest that, to make sleeping at night easier, you get that
electrician back, replace the 12 ga wire with 10 ga, and THEN go to to
30 amp breaker.
If you DO consider going that way, anothe option is to consider
having them bring 220 to that point. Your saw, and maybe your DC may
be able to be rewired to run on 220. If so, you won't have to replace
the wires (you mentioned that they are yellow, (which is
wrong,anyway)so, as long as there's a gound wire, you have enough leads
to do the job.

Pete Stanaitis
---------------------------------------------------------------

jtpryan wrote:

On Mar 9, 11:14 am, Gus wrote:

On Mar 9, 10:58 am, jtpr wrote:




I have a Delta 1.5 Hp dust collector I bought used, so I'm not sure
how old it is. I currently have it plugged into the 20 amp circuit in
my shop. I also have a Rigid TS3650 Table Saw, plugged into the same
circuit. This works fine if I walk over and turn on the DC then go
use the TS.

I bought one of those vac switches at Woodcraft the other day. This
is the thing you plug your DC into and then a tool. When you power on
the tool, the DC comes on. This works fine with my sander, mitre saw,
router, etc. But when I use the TS the breaker pops. This is new
electrical as of 1 year. I guess my question is does anybody know if
there is a kind of breaker that will handle a momentary spike like
this or could there be something wrong with my DC that is causing
this. I do know that if I try to run the DC on a 15 amp circuit all
by itself it will blow the breaker.

You can use a "slow trip" breaker - but be very aware of what you are
doing and the ramifications thereof.

This saw draws 13 A at 120 VAC.

Many (most) tools have a higher draw when starting than when running.

Also, make darn sure that your "20 amp circuit" is actually WIRED for
20 AMP and not 15. Just something to check.

Also, what else is using that line?


Yes, it is wired 20 Amp, 12 gauge yellow. I had the electrician wire
it for this when we renovated the house. Nothing else would be using
the line, I just power on one tool at a time.

How hard is it to change the breaker?

Jim