On Mar 3, 11:11*am, Ecnerwal
wrote:
...
Mind, for most of the stuff I'm doing, if I can press in a bushing
without deforming its inside surface too much, I don't have to get too
fussy about the bore finish.

If you do compress the bore too much, you could try this:
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/5701/...ipes/tools.htm

The head needs to be hardened steel, like a large socket, but the
shank could be water pipe turned smooth and guided by drilled plates,
with enough end clearance to start the cutter. You might be able to
anneal the socket, bore it to fit over the pipe, tap some holes to
attach it to the center of the pipe, mill teeth, and harden it. Before
I bought the surface grinder I sharpened home-made annular cutters on
the lathe with a Dremel on the toolpost.

Check the pipe's roundness before you buy it. Some that I've bought
recently cleaned up round with a 0.005" cut, other pieces were pushed
in along the weld line. You don't have to clean it up all the way
around but a dip can throw it off in the 3-jaw and tailstock center.

Weld a socket onto the end and drive it with a flex extension so you
don't put a bending force on the shaft.

Keyed shafting is less expensive than drill rod and quite useful for
homebrew lashups. I've had good luck with Enco's import keyway
broaches and home-made shims and guide bushings.

Jim Wilkins