On Fri, 13 Feb 2009 06:22:49 -0800 (PST), N8N
wrote:

On Feb 12, 7:05Â*pm, Bubba wrote:
On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 17:59:04 -0500, Ernie Willson

wrote:
Are dip tubes normally replaceable? Mine is shot and a plumber told me I
had to replace the whole heater to solve the problem. I sure would like
to just replace one part.

EJ in NJ

Oh my. It appears your plumber told you just a slight little white
lie. Shame on him. Dip tubes are EASILY replaceable. While doing it,
you may wish to replace the anode rod too. And by all means, if you
have one of those stupid plastic drain valves in the bottom of the
tank, rip it out and put in a new brass drain valve while you are at
it.
All this can be done without soldering now with the available
compression fittings and flexible hoses.

Very true, but a threaded connection of 10-15 years might require some
large tools and a helper to break loose. I did do all of this stuff,
as well as replacing the T/P valve, to an 18 year old water heater but
needed a 3/4" drive breaker bar and a helper to get the anode rod out
(my 1/2" drive breaker bar was flexing alarmingly, and I didn't feel
like testing it to failure.) My basin wrench was showing similar
signs of abuse after removing the drain valve. This is why in my
previous post I suggested not attempting this unless one could
comfortably replace the heater on short notice. I got lucky, but I
knew I was taking a risk.

That said, my heater should be good for another 5-6 years now, and
when it eventually dies I'll be able to transfer the brass ball-type
drain valve over to its replacement, making preventative flushing much
easier and less risky.

nate
And if you are replacing the dip tube, get the one with the ? hook on
the bottom - called a "turbulator" and you won't get deposits in the
bottom neerly as quickly.