Ron,

How is your slot size "infinitely variable"? Do you make multiple passes
with a small cutter? You don't find that more difficult than configuring a
dado set to 23/32" and hacking away with that to cut a groove for undersized
plywood?

This is a serious question; I'm not try to cause problems. But I'm just in
the process of getting comfortable with my new saw, and looking for guidance
and direction.

Clint

"Ron Magen" wrote in message
...
'DL',

The only 'Dado cutter' I have is one I got YEARS ago, with an old B&D {a
real piece of tin !}tabletop saw. It isn't even unwrapped.

When I need a 'slot' cut in plywood, or stock, my tool of choice is a
ROUTER - -
a) I can see what I'm doing & where I'm going
b) No 'changing set-ups'
c) Depending on the depth/width of the 'slot', I can use either my 'Trim
Router' or the 1/2 inch 'D' handle.
d) The 'slot size' is 'infinitely variable'
e) I can spend my money on other things

'Tear out' is simple to control. The slot width is marked with a 'score
line' from a utility knife
A 'straight edge guide' is made for the router, NOT for the bit - but for
the CENTER of the router/baseplate. It's then a simple matter to 'adjust'
for any specific bit. There are also a number of other methodologies for
setting up cutting guides. The bottom line is, the slot can be cut to the
*exact* width you want, and the bottom will probably be relatively smooth.

And, Yes . . . I am CHEAP !!

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop


"DLGlos" wrote in message
...
Just have to vent a little. After much searching for a quality stack
dado to replace my crappy Delta 6" wobble, . . .Jesada rep telling me .
..
. their Italian supplier (CMT???) has gone tits up.
SNIP
I'm not so worried about the bottom of the dado being baby butt smooth as
I
am about minimizing tearout along the edges; especially for hardwood
plywood. . . .
The Forrest is out of contention simply due to dollar issues.

All thought and ruminations considered.

DLGlos