TTW,
Actually, the practice of wrapping the bowls this way started 5 or
more years ago by the guy who started the DNA (denatured alcohol)
soaking method. So, I guess it isn't too new. The DNA is supposed to
help in drying and stabilizing wood. From my experiments, it does
ablosutely nothing that can be measured. I turn to final thickness
(1/4 to 1/2 inch depending on wood), and let the bowls dry and warp
then sand. I have never tried the turn thick, then dry, then return
method. The soakings, both DNA and LDD might have an effect on the
wood when doing this way, but again, I haven't tried it. I have
wrapped only the rim, with about an inch of plastic on the inside, and
the rest on the outside of the bowl, and it seems to work as well.
With the paper, I wrap the entire outside of the bowl, bend it over
the rim a bit to hold it in place till I can get the plastic film on
to hold it in place. So, I guess I wrap the paper vertically, and the
plastic horizontally (around the rim only). I have wrapped the entire
outside of the bowl with the plastic, and it works as well. What
surprised me was that there was no condensation between the plastic
and the wood. Also, because I am putting tension on the plastic as I
wrap, when I did the entire outside, the plastic would actually pull
itself off the bowl. Paper first, then plastic second seems to be the
easiest way. You can save the paper after use and it is already
preformed for using again if you have a bowl similar in size.
robo hippy
On Jan 26, 9:34*am, spaco wrote:
Because of the form of your questions, I will assume you are somewhat
new to woodturning, as am I.
* *I have only turned 5 bowls in my whole life.
Only one was wet wood; willow. * After asking some questions here and
getting some good answers, it came out really nice! *And, a year later,
no cracks at all.
* *But, here's my 2 cents:
All the other bowls I have turned have been from one small piece of
cherry branch about 7 or 8 inches in diameter and 8 feet long. *When I
cut that branch off the tree 7 or 8 years ago, I cut it into 2, 4 foot
lengths and painted the ends. * Forgot about it until mid year, last
year. *That's when I cut the thing up and made a few bowls. *Of the four
bowls I turned from this DRY cherry, *I have gotten NO splitting or
checking or warping at all.
* *The point is: *dry wood seems more stable than wet wood, if that's
any help to you at all.
* *We have heated with wood for many years and have thousands and
thousands of board feet of wood that we have sawed and stored here for
as long as 25 years. *They tell me that it takes about one year per inch
of wood thickness to get it to dry.
* *Using only air drying, here in west central Wisconsin, almost all of
my wood stabilizes at real close to 16% moisture. *So, even after many
years of air drying, when I brought those pieces into the shop, I kept
them in a plastic bag, loosely closed, so they wouldn't make the
transition from 16% toward 6 or 7% too quickly.
Last point: * Dry wood is a lot harder to turn and a lot harder on the
lathe tools, but, at least it doesn't squirt "juice" in my face like the
wet willow did.
Pete Stanaitis
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randyswoodshoop wrote:
HI
When bowl turning which woods are the most stable , will not warp or
crack as much ?
Which are the least stable?
What does everyone think of as pine for a turning wood. I have never
turned any pine?
Randy
http://nokeswoodworks.com