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[email protected] trader4@optonline.net is offline
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Default Fuses in box get hot when using Kenmore Electric Dryer (only onheat cycle) - Update fouund some problems.

On Jan 20, 1:20*am, "Jim2009" wrote:
Dryer Box; I took apart the fuse holders and cleaned all contact points
(including the fuses) with emery cloth and then with water. *One screw
assembles each fuse holder locking the holder (threads) and the wire
connection bar in place.

I found a corroded connection on one gate/post (when you flip the level on
the box). *It was on the heater side. *It was not to bad, looked like a bit
of the copper in the gate had transferred to the post which is more like
silver. *I also squeezed the gate prongs together to tighten the fit.

I found a major problem inside the outlet box after removing the cover, one
side of one of the female prongs was broken. *The male side prong (cord
side) had some heat damage. *I cleaned up the prongs on the cord. *Replaced
the dryer outlet with a new one. *Hooked everything back up, ran the dryer
on high heat without clothes for 30 mins, check the fuses - both were just
slightly warm, nothing at all like before.

Washed a load, put them in the dryer, opened a beer. *Checked the fuses
about 20 mins into the load, heater side was hot again! *(as it was in the
beginning) *But the motor side is now just slightly warm! *I removed the
fuse from the heater side and found some small arc points on the fuse tip
and the screw head it contacts. *I tightened the screw a bit, took the 30A
fuse from the motor side and stuck it in the heater side, put a new 15A in
the motor side. *(I'm out of 30's, will get new ones tomorrow). *I ran the
dryer for another 10 mins, checked fuses - both just slightly warm. *(Maybe
it was not long enough for it to get hot, will run longer tomorrow.)

I may tighten the screw inside the fuse holder a bit more, I didn't want to
over do it.

Anyone have an idea how many Amps each side (heater/motor) should draw? *I
think I need to replace the box, but I would like to make sure the dryer is
not the problem.



I'm not an expert in dryers, but I don't think there is one side for
the heater and one side for the motor. I would expect the heater
current flows through both legs, providing the heater with 240V. The
motor could be 120 and if so, would flow through one leg.

If it were me, I'd replace that box with a breaker as suggested. I
would not trust it, regardless of what else you find. And while I was
at it, since the main fuse panel is apparently located in a similar
environment and by all indications is likely even older, I'd get that
replaced by a new breaker panel too.



How about this Meter for checking the Amps? *Cen-tech Digital Clamp Meter athttp://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96308
*or this onehttp://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98675

So here's my plan.
1) *Buy a new meter, check Amps for both sides, if normal replace fuse box.
If not normal, then back to the dryer.......

Cheers,
Jim