aemeijers wrote in
:
grodenhiATgmailDOTcom wrote:
On Jan 16, 5:51 pm, "SteveBell" wrote:
I have a ranch house that has a small decorative gable (I think
that's what it's called). It's like a short (maybe 2 feet tall)
and wide (maybe 7 feet across) section of roof that juts out, kind
of like a dormer with no windows. This feature ends about 2-3
inches from the roof line (think of a dormer where the window would
be about three inches form the edge of the roof). the shingles in
this narrow strip of roof need to be replaced, they're all cracked,
curling. The rest of the roof is fine (second layer is about 6-7
years old, we bought the house with two layers a few years ago).
There's no water coming in (that I can see in attic or in the
house), but I want to try to address this myself. How would I
arrange the shingles in a 3 inch wide by 7 foot long strip of roof?
It's narrower than even the tabs of a shingle. Just get several
rectangular pieces and lay them in a row each overlaopping the
previous one?? I'll work on posting a picture if you think it'll
help.
A picture would be nice, but it sounds to me like you've got a
gable.
I hate it when they leave the tiny little piece of roof for purely
decorative purposes. It's a pain to maintain roof that doesn't
actually do anything.
Here are some options:
* Ask three roofers to look at it. If that section is failing,
likely
the rest of the roof is about to go. If you catch it early, you
*might* be able to use the manufacturer's warranty. If nothing else,
you'll be prepared for the worst. You don't have to actually hire
the roofers if you don't want to.
* To fix it yourself, remove all the shingles and underlayment down
to
bare wood. Replace any damaged wood. Apply new underlayment. Apply a
layer of shingles with the tabs hanging off the edge of the roof
(assuming three-tab shingles). Cut off the overhang. Apply roofing
tar to the nails if you want. Cut tabs off shingles so they'll fit,
then nail them on top of the solid layer. *Do* apply roofing tar to
these nails. Install and seal flashing, and you're done.
--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA
I just took a picture of the area.... so you see these shingles are
done... It appears (from my perspective that when the second layer
was put on, this area never got it, as the rest of the roof edges
look to have more layers than this section). No other areas of the
roof look at all like this......
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...ZQw?feat=direc
tlink
Why would this one area look so beaten, while the rest of the roof
appears fine? I'd send a shot of the rest of the roof, but its all
snow. The rest of the shingles are in the same shape as the ones you
see going up the gable (though I'm sure there's no where near enough
showing to get an idea.)
I'd just replace/cover the whole area with white flashing, and be done
with it. In a fancy house, they would put a strip of copper there.
Usual cautions about getting the flashing up under the siding, and
under the adjacent shingles on the ends, apply. A strip of that sticky
stuff they use on eves and in valleys is probably a good idea, once
you clean out all the rotted stuff and build back with solid wood. No
way would I put shingles back there- wrong material for the job on a
tiny strip like that. You can buy the flashing in rolls, and
blacksmith it yourself, or any local sheet metal shop could make you
up sticks on their bending machine.
--
aem sends...
Flashing was my first thought since it looks like it's not even visible
from anywhere. Even if it was, nothing wrong with white flashing as long
as it's not hacked like an old can in the road.
sticky stuff they use on eves and in valleys
Generically called WSU - Waterproof Shingle Underlayment. It's rather
expensive for a regular 36" roofing roll ($80-100+) considering what will
be used. May want to look into Flashing Tape. Kind of the same sticky
back suff but comes in narrow rolls. Often stated as used for chimneys,
and windows.