On 10 Jan, 21:32, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message
,
robgraham writes



On 10 Jan, 11:40, Tim Lamb wrote:
Does anyone have practical experience of fitting one.

I have been trepidating over ordering a log burner with CH boiler
basically because I suspect the coil on my existing hot tank is too low
for either version of the neutraliser to work under gravity alone.

Raising the tank is not very practical as it would then bulge into the
loft. A second hot tank could be installed but with what benefit?

As a sideways step I have ordered a log burner which can have a CH
boiler retro-fitted while I seek counsel:-)

regards
--
Tim Lamb

Hi Tim
I fitted one some 15+ years ago. *It's a challenge plumbingwise if
you've got only a small space; a plumber doing it would take in a long
suck of air and warm up his calculator. *May well be easier with
modern plastic pipes.

My ceiling height is nominally 9ft and I've got the tank on a frame
such that it's base is 6.5ft above the floor and it just pokes through
the attic floor (with a cupboard above for wine making and the CH
header on top of that!). *I'm not sure quite what counts as the head
above the stove but the bottom of the saddle tank is about 10" above
floor level.

Does that help - by all means come back with any questions.

I'm grappling with the idea of 9ft. high rooms!

This is a two storey farmhouse with an *included attic* construction so
in most places upstairs I can easily lay a hand flat on the ceiling.

The intended boiler position is almost directly below the airing
cupboard and, at a pinch, I can bring the gravity riser in at floor
level.

My existing hot tank stands on the floor and terminates just below the
ceiling! Immersion heaters have to be fitted from the loft.

My first stumbling block is failing to understand the neutraliser
installation instructions downloaded from their website. For instance
boilers are categorised into 4 classes without explaining whether this
refers to the existing boiler or the one you wish to add!

As Dunsley seem willing to get involved in the system design, I should
perhaps write to them explaining my intentions and see if they can
clarify things.

It is reassuring to know that someone has a successful installation:-)

regards
--
Tim Lamb

Tim

Firstly I've found the boiler classification from my old datasheet:-
1 Solid fuel boiler not controlled by a water sensing thermostat
2 Ditto controlled
3 Conventional gas/oil fired boilers with low resistance heat
exchangers
4 Low water content, high resistance gas boilers.

I'm a bit puzzled as to your concern about the height of your tank
coil; I haven't explored the Dunsley website extensively and I may
have missed something but what I did see was that a head of 350mm is
quoted as the minimum. On the basis of that I think it is reasonable
to assume they mean above the top of the stove, or at least the centre
of the output pipes

If I understand your house description the tank is sitting on the
upper storey floor, ie some 7/8 ft above the ground floor where the
wood burner will be. I've measured my set up and there's 1.25m from
the stove outlet to the bottom of the R type Neutraliser.

I was advised against the complex plumbing arrangement that Dunsley
show on their site and in the leaflet I have. They are keen in both
on the accelerated gravitational flow system involving an injection
T. I just used 28mm pipe - mine's a type 1 boiler so I rely on the
ordinary vented tank to be the dump - over 20 years use and there's
never been a problem. What I do have is a home brewed differential
thermostat on the stove and some electronic logic to shut off the oil
burner when the wood stove is up to temperature.

Hope that helps a bit

Rob