ok, guys, thanks for the info :-)

while you guys are still here, anybody familiar with THIS particular type

http://fileserver7.jpghosting.com/im...d544 825a.jpg

of CR2032 on-board battery holder? (both of my cameras use -this-
holder). so far, to remove one of the batteries, I've tried:

"thumbnail stretching" the battery holder (upper black tab in this
image) wider to help extract it. seems only able to stretch about 50%
wide enough to allow removal - I'm not eager to risk 'busting' the holder.

also tried lifting (lower center in this image) the silver tab with
thumbnail, result being it doesn't seem "lift highable enough" to remove
the battery (without exceeding the elastic limit of the thin metal, anyway)

so now I'm contemplating: heating old butterknife red with blowtorch,
and using the hot tip to 'push over and off' the upper black tab (or
possibly to just cut it back 50% or so)

alternate approach: razor-knifing the upper black 'ear' shorter, or
maybe dremeling it shorter (or maybe "down flat entirely").

idea: anybody think the lower silver ear might be able to be removed
-entirely- straight upward *if* I insert, say, the end of a paper clip
in the lowermost square hole below the center of the ear 'clip', and
push down there while pulling UPward on the silver ear?

and, yeah, i -do- see (what I think are) two 'pry slots' one on each
side of the lower silver 'downforce' clip (but, still, it seems prying
it up THERE would permanently BEND the chrome ear)...

some sites 'advise' removing the holder (and the battery within) @the
same time by unsoldering the holder 'as a unit' from the board with a
soldering iron...bubba here not eager to try removing the holders
-entirely- to change the batts unless it's abso-tively neccessary dread
factor: traces on these boards are 'near microscopic'...one slip and
it's 'ruination day'

battery voltages (measured on pins, opp side of both boards, both
batteries still in place) in the 2100 camera: 2.73 volts. and on the
2120 camera: 2.46 volts.

I also have four 'other' CR2032 batteries (removed from old
motherboards, where I ruined the holders extracting 'em) which have 2.09
v, 2.65 v, 2.76 v, and 3.06 v (amazingly enough)...

bonus question: how low a 'volts out' can I expect a battery to be
before it's 'near dead'? or 'technically dead'?

- -

thanks guys

dave toolie :-)

historic info, for true fanatics: these CR2032 on-board battery holders
seem to be available in a 'bewildering array' of slightly differing
configs (can't find anyone online selling the -same- holder, or 'socket'
used in my cameras). here's about 32 of 'em:


http://www.batteryholders.com/PBT_Coin_cell.shtml
about 16 shown here...

and roughly 16 mo
http://www.batteryholders.com/cr2032.shtml

















Clint Sharp wrote:
In message
,
Jeroni Paul writes
let's say my onboard battery is stone dead (which I expect they are),
but I want to reset my camera back to its original factory defaults,
following the recommended procedure. if I follow the recommended
procedure while never UNplugging the camera from its "wall wart" power
supply, shouldn't the camera "return to" it's original default IP
address and hold that default IP address *ASSUMING* I've never unplugged
the wall power supply adapter from the camera?

After reset the camera software might perform a reboot and load back
the settings from the NV memory which is powered by the batteries.
It's only powered from battery when there's no external power.

It's entirely possible that the battery is only used to hold a time/date
value and that the configuration is held in EEPROM which doesn't rely on
a battery to keep its contents. Finding out how to perform a factory
reset would be useful in this case.

Once the OP has done that, as another poster suggested, use a crossover
cable to connect it directly to a PC, setting the PC's IP address/subnet
mask to be in the same subnet as the factory default for the camera. If
that fails then contact Axis Tech support.