"Leon" wrote in message
...

"MikeWhy" wrote in message
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LOL Maybe that's more of a comment on the Craftsman than on mechanized
jointing?

Partly ;~)


I have a 6" Jet and hold the opposite opinion. The boards stick
together from the vacuum between their faces when they're stacked next to
each other on edge. My hat's off to you and your skills if you can do
that reliably without a jointer.

I have never checked to see if the boards stick from the vvacuum however
the joint pretty much disappears when the boards are slid up next to each
other. Basically if you can rip a straight line on your TS you can
straighten a board on your TS with a jig. Grain is typically the only
indicator of where to look for the joint.


On a fixed income, though, I'll concede the point. You don't need that
level of precision for stuff that grows and shrinks with the seasons.
Tell me more about your jigs.


I use a piece of 3/4" x 14" x 8' long piece of plywood with a straight
edge that runs along the rip fence of the TS. I clamp with two toggle
clamps the board to be straightened with the crooked edge hanging off the
opposite side of the plywood panel. The clamps hold the crooked board so
that the crooked edge is cut off when the jig is run through the TS. This
jig woks on the same principal as a taper jig for a TS except the board
rides on top of the sled rather than beside the jig. I am using a
cabinet saw with a Forrest WWII. I can actually straighten a board much
faster than using a jointer with this jig. I only takes one pass to
straighten any board up to 8' in length. Can you say that about most any
common sized jointer? ;~)

I also have a sled jig for my 15" stationary planer that will flatten
boards up to 13" wide. This is impossible with most common sized jointers
unless you rip the board in half and flatten the two resulting pieces.

Yah. AOK on the rip part. Won't you need a bunch of shimming to plane the
face on the sled? How does that work if not?