On Dec 29, 8:49*am, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
Is there a FAQ somewhere that explains the various types of fasteners and
terms? *I am browsing around for air staplers and nailers and am perplexed
by the choices...

For example, what is the difference between a "L" nail and a "T" nail?

Some of the nailers or staplers says they can shot say so many shots per
second. *I wonder when this is applicable? *I would assume most carpentry
usage is one nail at a time somewhat precise where you want it? *When will
you shoot so many nails or staples a second? *Is this for attaching oil
painting on portrait frames?

Some staplers and nailers that can do up to 2" says the 2" depth is "FOR
SOFT WOOD ONLY". *What does it mean by "soft wood". *Is regular 2x4 wood
studs soft wood? *I would assume so. *What about pressure treated 2x4 or
2x6? *Those are still considered soft wood right? *I assume soft wood in
this context mean not hard wood, not oak or cherry - not to be used to nail
hard wood flooring or baseboard? or shallower depths is ok for hardwood?

Is it better to use a staple or nail to attach baseboards? *If my baseboards
are to be stained and not painted?

I assume there are websites with these answers already but I searched and
couldn't find any relevant ones.

Thanks,

MC

Wow! that's a ton of questions!

www.porta-nails.com/datasheets/nails.pdf

Is a start on answering some of them, esp L vs T nails...they show
some pretty specialized fasteners

Cyclic rate is important is production situations; like nailing off
shear walls or sub-floors or any other situation where the operator
does not want to be waiting on the tool. Like pallet building using
staples.

When they mention softwood vs hardwood, they are concerned with the
driving force / driving capacity of the tool / fastener combination.
Some guns can drive longer fasteners but only into "softer"
materials. One can crank up the pressure but there are limits.

Framing timbers are typically softwoods but 80 year old DF (or cedar)
old growth, tight growth rings can be quite "hard" and refuse nails &
brads unless you max out the pressure.

Oak flooring (production work / large areas) should be done with
flooring tools & special fasteners....hand driven or air driven.

I just R&R'd a small section of oak flooring in a closet to "fix" an
80 year old sub floor anomaly....... instead of busting out my hand
driven flooring nailer for 36" of flooring, I used a Paslode 16 gage
brad nailer. Not exactly the right but it was in a closet and not
even the traffic area.

A good 16 (.062) gage brad nailer is fine for base. A true finish
nailer 15 gage (.072) might be a little better choice. I have a PC
18 gage & a Paslode 16 gage and they seem to cover the range.

I could never justify getting a 15 gage true finish nailer also plus
my inventory of 16 gage SS brads is a further block to going with 15
gage..

I've used the 16 for oak base. The brad fires through the base,
through the plaster or drywall and into the studs, lath or bottom
plate. Never had a problem even with 2" brads. But they're typcially
only going through 9/16 or 5/8 of oak and the rest is "softer"
materials.

For oak base shoe over oak base, I use 18 gage brads but usually
they're only about an inch or so long. No driving problems.

For base I use the smallest fastener diameter that I think will do
the job...smaller holes hide better and smaller brads are less likely
to split the wood. My buddy has a 23 gage micro pinner, often one
cannot even see the holes depending on grain or finish.

I would recommend against staples for any kind of finish work. They
leave a pretty nasty surface.

HTH
cheers
Bob