I have both a 1/2 and 3/4 Timbewolf resaw blade on my 1hp Jet 14" saw. I
wouldn't get another 3/4". The quality of the cut is better with the 1/2" and
both are straight.

Grant



George wrote:

I've a tin ear and a stock spring, so I use a result-oriented method.

Tension to something that feels taut short of the max, check it by
overfeeding a chunk of scrap. If it bows, tighten it some more. Don't
overfeed your work, and you've a double safe factor.

"Dan" wrote in message
...
On Sun 28 Sep 2003 06:57:37p, "Bob Heveri"
wrote in
:

have the same saw and use the Timberwolf 3/4 blade and the cuts are
extremely straight. I don't get any drift at all. I also use a high
fence. Before using this Timberwolf blade I had all kinds of drift and
the cuts sometimes were bowed.

This blade does not require a lot of tension which is why you can use
it on a 14" saw.

Bob Heveri


Thanks Bob. About how much tension do you put on it? Do you use the "about
a quarter inch with normal finger pressure" method or the "Get a musical
note when you twang it" method? Or maybe the "compress the spring till
it's
about all squashed" method.

That may sound like I'm being flip, but those are all methods I've heard
either here or in a book, and I'm actually curious how you do it. It's
probably something like "I've been tensioning bandsaw blades for thirty
years and I just KNOW" sorta thing, but hey, no harm in asking.

Dan