mm wrote in
:

Hello again.

I would just plunge in and do this if it were at my house, but it's an
ex-girlfriend and I don't want to make more than one trip, if
possible. Certainly no more than two. Any help is appreciated.

She has a bathtub with Sterling faucets, and when the valve is set for
the tub spigot, barely any water comes out, hot or cold. When turned
towards the shower, the shower works fine, hot and cold.

It seems very unlikely that the tub spigot is clogged, right?, so that
leaves the diverter valve.

Especially since the valve is a little harder to turn than mine for
the first 30 degrees and then very hard to turn for the next 15
degrees. At that point it's even harder yet and I'm afraid I'll make
things worse if I force it. (My own nameless diverter valve turns
about 190 degrees before stopping. This one only 45 degrees.)


Can I take this apart from the bathtub side???? I'm thinking it needs
some plumbers grease and it feels like it needs some crumbling parts
removed. Is there really something that can crumble? Should I
bring my box of 0-rings?

I've looked but haven'f found an exploded view of a Sterling valve, or
any valve.


If I have to unsolder the valve and put in another one, I can do it,
but it's probably more than I'm willing to do


It's the original plumbing from about 1973. Chrome, with fluted ball-
shapped handles, if that matters. (I figure most valves are pretty
much alike.)

Thanks

There was a celcon/nylon washer in the one I rebuilt. It got jambed up and
deformed. I think you will find just getting a new diverter valve is
fastest, cheapest, easiest and sure fire. Brog probably has it. Bring in
the old one with you.

I put a pdf in alt.binaries.test with a subject title "Diverter PDF" It's a
parts diagram for an old 3 handle Central Brass fixture. E is the diverter
stem. Item 11 is the washer I spoke of. Hopefully it relates to what you're
working on...the shower, not the ex-g.