Thread: Rust removers
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Ed Huntress Ed Huntress is offline
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Default Rust removers


"Wild_Bill" wrote in message
...
Ted hasn't shown his presence here for quite some time, Ed, more than a
year and possibly closer to 2 years.

He is very knowlegable in many areas, and helped me by providing his Gears
program for Smithy 3in1 machines, for threading 27 tpi.

I think someone here is a close acquaintence of Ted, maybe one of the guys
from the northern plains states.

--
WB


Well, he's missed. He has some pretty sophisticated knowledge.

--
Ed Huntress


.........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

Ted Edwards (where is Ted these days?), who apparently knows a lot about
chemistry and plating/derusting, posted his formula to the dropbox some
years ago:

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...es/E-CLEAN.TXT

This is for "brush" type removal, rather than the tank method. I use it
all the time and it works brilliantly. My power supply is a 4-Amp
automotive battery charger. Since I had some EDM graphite on hand, I
sawed off a slab for use as the electrode. But a graphite rod available
from welding suppliers should be handier.

The formula is a bit more complicated than might be necessary, but Ted
knows electrochemistry and I don't, so I follow his formula.

As for the tank method, yes, you can keep re-using the mixture until it's
full of crud.

The black oxide that remains is similar to that left by phosphoric acid
when you use phosphoric (Naval Jelly or pool acid) on thick rust, but it
brushes off much more easily. I use a small stainless brush. Sometimes
I've used muriatic (hydrochloric) acid to finish it off, but only if I'm
going to paint afterward.

--
Ed Huntress