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liquidator liquidator is offline
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Default Speaker overload (tweeter) protection using bulbs (repost)


"Jamie" t wrote in message
...
liquidator wrote:

"Jamie" t wrote in

message
news
George's Pro Sound Company wrote:


"William Sommerwerck" wrote in message
...


the easiest way to overdrive a speaker is to use a[n] amp
larger than the speaker[']s rateing [sic]

Actually, the easiest way to overdrive a speaker is to play it at a


level

where it produces audible distortion. But as most listeners have no

idea
what distortion sounds like...


OTOH distortion does not destroy speakers, speakers are as happy to

play
distortion as clean signal
only when you exceed the heat dissipating ability of the motor do you


burn

out a speaker

clipping does not damage speakers and distortion does not damage


speakers,

its overheating and over excursion that damages speakers
distortion is one method of achieving overheating, but you can overheat


with

a spotlessly clean signal as well



Really?, I'll make sure I don't do business with you.

Btw, distortion due to amplifier saturation, even though the amp is
far belong the rating of the speaker can and does over heat the speaker
coil and thus, can terminate the life of a speaker even rated higher
than said amp.




Ahnothetr person with minimal knowledge.

George doesn't always word things the best way, but he knows a lot.

Speakers are rated for average power, over time.

Look at the area under a square wave- it is a lot larger than the area

under
a sine wave. What that means is more power for a longer time. What is
happening is the AMOUNT of power is being increased to a speaker for a
longer TIME.

Plain and simple- that is more power. It is the amout of power over time
that kills the speaker...it can only shed heat so fast, put power in

faster
than that it will burn up.

Simple..just use a bigger amp...and drive it to peak, you can blow the
speaker quickly.

Use a smaller amp, and drive it to its full power for longer, and the
speaker will blow, assuming the amp is big enough to put out that much
average power.
Either way- it is power that is the culprit. The amount of energy being

put
into the speaker...put it in faster than the speaker can sink it, you

will
have thermal failure.

It is not DC as people who skimmed one book and didn't understand it

want to
insist.

Make the amp small enough, the speaker can handle any waveform. Make the

amp
big enough and the speaker will fail instantly with any input at

all...then
there are a million scenarios in between.

I disagreee with George, I use big amps and don't blow speaker,

conversely
people are blowing their 100 watt speakers with "50 watt" amplifiers.

Take a look at an EV speaker rating...xxx watss with pink noise for xxx
hours.

Change the signal, the speaker's rating changes. Incraes the time, the
speaker's rating changes.

Square waves or severe clipping is more power for a longer time. That is

all
it is.

Not DC, not any big mystery, it's a measurable phenomenon.

I do agree with George that sizing amps and sopeakers reduces chance for
failure. But many touring companies use big amps for horns also, larger

amps
tend to hold their resale better, from a business standpoint make more

sense
to me.

Here's a semi pro example-

Loot at the price difference between a Behringer 2500 and a 1500. Not
much...but come resale time you will do a lot better with the 2500..

Business is business, I buy bigger amps. your mileage may vary.


What ever you do think you know as fact, must of come at a great expense
of destroying a lot of electronics.


Again showing your gross ignorance.
As a working pro I'm sure I paid more in taxes than you earned.

Welcome to the killfiles as the only total loss I've seen today.

Dont' bother replying, but your juvenile need to will make you do it anyway.