"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
. net...

"Michael Koblic" wrote in message
...
snip---

Lose the circular handle and use the lever handle, assuming you have one.
Set a permanent stop, so the spindle stops at the same place every time,
then use the knee to achieve the depth you desire. I'm assuming you have
a knee on the machine. If not, none of this is relevant.

I have worked that one out. The issue is the correect positioning of the
depth stop. The shim method which someone suggested seems the best with this
machine.

If you have multiple holes to drill in the same piece, mark your dials and
do each operation to all of the holes in each piece before doing the next
operation. For example, center drill all locations, then drill all
locations, then tap them. If you learn to trust the dials and
understand how to mark them, keeping backlash in the proper direction at
all times, you can revisit hole locations within a thou with no trouble at
all.

Do not use end mills as drills. That is **** poor advice. They, at best,
suck for drilling due to their geometry. They evacuate chips poorly, and
will cut drastically ovesized holes should one flute load. They are often
the cause of mis-located holes due to the end mill moving the table or
saddle about when that happens. It's easy enough to grind a flat bottomed
drill, which will remove the tapered portion of an existing hole without
issues, with no risk of oversizing.

Which is what I have been doing very succesfully on the drill press...

None of this is rocket science, just procedures you'd use on a daily basis
if you were operating manual machines. I've done them since the late
50's. No big deal.

Did I mention you should not use end mills to drill holes? :-)


OK, I won't. In any case, there was not a 5/32 mill in the whole of Campbell
River today, so I could not even try this heinous crime :-)
Thanks,

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC