On Thu, 30 Oct 2008 23:17:49 -0700, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

On Thu, 30 Oct 2008 20:09:28 -0400, wrote:
On Thu, 30 Oct 2008 01:21:30 -0700, Bruce L. Bergman wrote:

It's going to have a shorter life from the cavitation bubbles, but
if you keep the water moving swiftly as it goes over the heater
element it should minimize this. One of the "Rough Service" or "Low
Watt Density" (double-folded) elements will help too. And get a
blade-style flow switch to keep the element off till the water is
moving.

Let the hot water get carried along by the velocity out into the
main tank and /then/ go "Oh, I'm supposed to boil now..."

Element is 60 inches long, double folded.

The double-folded is /usually/ the low watt density style, but you
need to cross the part number in the book to know for certain. And
read the footnotes, make sure that the sheath material is compatible
with any additives you will put in the water.

And if it isn't the 1" pipe thread screw in style, get another
heater element - you'll play hell duplicating that four bolt flange.
And the elements are easier to get.

They sell adapters for going the other way - a four bolt flange
with the 1" threaded bung in the center.

-- Bruce --
4 bolt flange mounting (I can easily make the flange) and there will
be no additives in the water. Elements are copper or copper coated
(Chromalox 20200 860 d80) Cost me $5 brand new - and there are 3 more
in stock at the same price that I will buy if it works out (for spares
down the road).