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Wayne Boatwright[_5_] Wayne Boatwright[_5_] is offline
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Default Refrigerator efficiency test conditions?

On Mon 06 Oct 2008 03:50:32a, ransley told us...

On Oct 5, 12:17*pm, Wayne Boatwright
wrote:
On Sun 05 Oct 2008 04:41:06p, ransley told us...


On Oct 5, 6:26*pm, mike wrote:
My new fridge says it costs $43/year to run. Call it T$
What test conditions lead to that number?


If I let it run and never open the door, it will cost me X$ to run.


So, the annual cost of opening the door is Y$ = T$ - X$.


What's the magnitude of Y$? *And what opening rate does it assume?


If it's a significant percentage of the total cost, it might make
sense to address the opening problem.


95% of my accesses are for stuff stored on the door.
The inside is mostly empty and rarely accessed.
Maybe curtain the inside of the box?
OR fill the empty space with empty boxes so less cold
air spills out when the door opens.
It's the same concept
as putting open-topped vessels in your toilet tank to reduce
the water/flush.


Sounds like it's probably way into diminishing returns, but
every little bit helps save the planet.


Any idea the ratio of Y$ to T$?


Thanks, mike


If you dont open it it will cost less than T, if you use it minimaly
it should cost T, how they test is published somewhere, try
www.energystar.govI get less than T with easy use. That 43$ figure is
unlikely the amount that you pay per kwh. What do they say 0.08kwh,
im at 0.13


First it was the idiot who wanted to encase his freezer in thick foam
insulation and operate it in a kitchen kept at barely above freezing
temperature.

Now this...

Can't people accept the fact that an appliance takes energy to operate
it

,
and in the case of freezers and refrigerators that there is some energy
lost when it's opened? *

Usually people select an appliance on usage factors and consideration
of its energy consumption. *Given that they made a specific choice,
they m

ust
have a great deal of time on their hands to worry about relatively
insiginificant issues as this.


Whats your problem. I tested my Energy Star Sears frige several times
with a Kill-A-Watt meter, the results I post are what I found in
actual use in a kitchen that goes to 85f. Do a test and post something
other than an opinion.


What's the point? Were you going to return it if you didn't like the
results? Both my refrigerator and upright freezer are Energy Star
compliant. My kitchen is kept at a constant 75°F. Nothing's likely to
change how much energy they use, except possibly how often and for how
long I open the door. That, too, is not likely to change since I open the
doors when I need to and for no longer than necessary.

You gotta a problem with that? Tough!

--
Wayne Boatwright
(correct the spelling of "geemail" to reply)

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