"John Rumm" wrote in message
et...
Arfa Daily wrote:

Well, today, it just got a bit more complicated. She has now decided that
she wants the radiator changing to one of those 'ladder' types as well,
so my new question is, given that the boiler will be off by virtue of the
input water and power being off, is there anything else I need to do
either before disconnecting the old radiator, or after hooking up the new
one, apart from bleeding it, obviously? From memory, the boiler is an
Alpha CB24X.

If in the unlikely case you can just swap one rad for the other - then it
would be very straight forward - turn off both rad taps, open the coupling
a little at one end and drain the rad contents into a bowl, remove rad and
replace, open taps, bleed as required[1].

However chances are you will need to alter pipework and taps for the rad
(she probably wants nice chrome ones to match the rad as well!) For this
you will need to drain some water from the system. This is exactly the
same as you would do with a conventional system except there is no header
tank and ballcock to mess about with.

Being a daughter, she has total faith in her dear old dad, but I must
confess that I am not looking forward to this job, as I have never worked
on anything other than a traditional system with indirectly heated hot
water in a storage tank, and the talk I see on here of pressurising
modern systems with footpumps and so on, puts me off a bit.

Fear not, your halo will remain intact! ;-)

(the bit about foot pumps etc is nothing to do with "normal" operation of
a sealed system but is to do with rectifying a particular type of fault
that can happen)

The taps for her new bath have the large size of inlet, but the pipes
going there are 15mm. Also, the space is very tight behind that end of
the bath, and there are also a pair of 15mm pipes tee'd in to feed an
existing shower. To make it all a lot easier to couple up, I would like
to pre-assemble the taps onto the bath, and come off them with 15mm
flexis with a push-fit remote end. Is there a flexi made, which has 15mm
push collar at one end, and 22mm tap connector at the other, or am I
going to have to fit a 22mm connector, followed by a 22 to 15 reducer ?
Or is there a threaded adaptor available ? Or what is the recommended way
of getting from 22 to 15 via a flexi tail ? All useful advice appreciated
before Saturday, when it all begins ... :-\

I take you mean something like:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/77154/...15mm-x-x-300mm

Can't see a push fit version - but if you need that, then just put a stub
of pipe in the compression fitting and use a straight pushfit coupling on
that.


[1] See Ed's description of filling and bleeding a sealed system he

http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

In particular the section on "How do I refill the whole system when
working alone?"

generally easier than doing the same on a header tank system.

--
Cheers,

John.

Thanks for the good advice, and confidence that it will be a straightforward
job for me ! Son in law went to B&Q today, and got a pair of flexis that he
tells me fit the taps directly at one end, and are 15mm push fit at t'other.
Believe it or not, he says a spotty-faced erk in a B&Q teeshirt found these
for him ...

All ok on the rad. The pipework will definitely need modding, so I guess a
degree of draining down will be needed. Presumably, as it's an upstairs rad,
so at the top of the system, if I shut off any other upstairs rads so that
they cannot drain back into the upstairs pipework, then not much water will
need to be removed ?
Arfa