On Sep 22, 9:55*pm, spaco wrote:

I grind anvil faces for people on an old G%L model 35 (3hp spindle). *I
push it real hard and take 2 to 3 thou per pass at .050" feed and medium
table travel speed. Lots of coolant. *You probably know more than I do
about this, but the face of old anvils are almost NEVER parallel with
the base. I have seen them off by as much as 1/4". * Attempting to
indicate them in can be frustrating since the face can be sooooo poor.
I have a piece of ground tooling plate that I lay upon the face when I
first sit the anvil on the table. *I look for obvious humps and grind
them down with an angle grinder. * Once the plate sits more or less in
the same plane as the face, I indicate on the plate and shim the base to
that. *That way I have less metal to remove before the face is trued up..

Since you want to retain as much of the top (hardened) surface as
possible, why not place the anvil up side down on the mag chuck and
grind the (unimportant) bottom face to match first?

Once the bottom is true to the average of the top, then flip the anvil
and minimum grind the top.

Figuring out how to retain the meat you need is an important skill in
toolmaking. Many times blocks are machined non-ideally (read: the
machinist ****s them up) and then the heat-treat process warps them
even further away from ideal. Rework on a machined/hardened block is a
real pain...

Regards,

Robin