On Sep 21, 12:52*pm, PerryOne wrote:
On Sep 21, 4:25 pm, Aaron Fude wrote:





On Sep 21, 10:46 am, ransley wrote:

On Sep 21, 3:32 am, Aaron Fude wrote:

Hi,

I'm considering converting two of my hot water radiators to an
underfloor heating system. A friend of mine, who is marginally more
knowledgeable than me when it comes to radiant heating, alerted me
that depending on volume of flow or rate of flow or the length of
piping or some other such thing, it just might not be viable. The
argument is that if the pvc piping is too long, the drag might prevent
the water from circulating well.

Here's a picture of what I currently have, kind of:

http://freeboundaries.com/tight.jpg

On the left and on the right, you are seeing two pipes (galvanized?,
3"?) that go to the radiators. You can see smaller pipes (3/4", I'm
pretty sure) branching off and traveling to the actual radiators that
I would like to remove. Further down, they are connected to copper
pipes that go into the radiators.

I'm not sure if this information is at all useful, but if it is,
please tell me what you think about the viability of underfloor
heating in this case.

Many thanks in advance,

Aaron

You need a pro to run btu numbers and draw up a set up, radiant heat
might run at 110f while at the same time on a cold day the radiators
might go to 180f. Its done all the time but it has to be done right.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Hi,

What does it mean that the system is balanced? My system does not have
any valves except at some of the radiators and each of those is
constantly turned off and then back on depending on whether the room
is being used. *Am I not supposed to do that? Or does balancing mean
that pipe sizes were chosen intelligently some time ago?

Thanks again,

Aaron

With most simple systems, there is but one thermostat, usually placed
in the living room, used to control the heating of the whole home.
Because of the limitations presented by this type of system, other,
better ways have been developed.

The simple one thermostat system, uses a simple valve at one end of
each radiator to limit the amount of water going through the radiator,
and thereby the radiators heat output. This shares the heat available
between the radiators that are turned on at the time.
This means that when the thermostat has reached its set temperature,
the whole system shuts down and other rooms *can become uncomfortably
cold.

A better way is to have thermostatic valves on each radiator, these
set the temperature for each room and when that temperature is reached
they turn off, this stops the rooms from becoming too hot, but it
doesn't stop them from becoming cold when the single controlling
thermostat turns off.

The best way! Each room has its own thermostat with direct control to
the boiler.
This system, called "Zoned" keeps each room withing half of a degree
of its set temperature. This is the most economic system to run and it
saves a lot of money.
However, it *does cost extra to install. And yes, existing systems can
be altered to suit.

I have my home "Zoned" but with two mobile thermostats, one for the
living rooms, one for the bedrooms.
Bathrooms and toilets are joined to both Zones so they stay warm.
As we move from room to room we take the relevant thermostat with us.
I think that this way we get the best result with the best cost.
Perry- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Hi,

Thanks for the very useful information!

So does this mean that my heating system is unbalanced and I should re-
balance it?
Also, what's the right trade to contact for a feasibility calculation
- HVAC?

Many thanks in advance!

Aaron