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Tom Bergman
 
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Default Time for a dedicated shop

"-linux_lad" john at linuxlad dot org wrote in message ...
ok, I'll take a stab at this. I'm not an inspector or expert, but
I've done a fair amount of this. As you've noted, local codes vary,
and I'm all the way across the country (MD).
I know that local codes vary, but I have some general questions I hope someone can
answer:

It sounds like you plan to get permits. Smart idea. I'd hate to
build a 400 sq.ft. building only to have to tear it down because a
neighbor decided to call it in, an inspector happened to be in the
neighhborhood and noticed the construction, or I happened to violate
an easement I was unaware of and the holder of the easement wanted to
enforce it. The permit review process will check all this for you,
except the ornery neighbor part, and once you've got the permits their
opinion doesn't matter anyway (if you need a variance, you'll have to
suck up for a while!). I'll offer one horror story ... Near me,
someone added a nice all-brick, very large extension to their home.
Didn't bother with permits. Unfortunately, they were in the electric
utility's easement (overhead power lines - there's a hint to check
easements before building...). Long story short, home addition gone.

1) Is a four inch thick slab foundation adequate for this and likely to be approved?

Don't know. Couple things to consider. I think you're confusing slab
with foundation. In my area, small outbuildings, like shed 150
sq.ft., can be built on a floating foundation (there's an engineering
term but I forget it at the moment). This is what I used. The
perimeter is 8" thick with a couple rebar in the bottom, the the slab
is 4" thick. Mesh to tie everything together. The foundation
"floats" in the sense if there is frost heave the whole slab moves -
building may not be quite plumb, but it doesn't get torn to pieces
since it is sitting on a flat, albeit potentially tilted slab of
concrete. I can't imagine a 20x20 slab can handle those stresses
without bending or cracking, which will do wonders for the building on
top of it. On the other hand, I don't know that frost is an issue in
Sacremento.

You may have to pour a true foundation. Since you're talking normal
construction that'd go around the perimeter just like your house.
The slab is poured separately. If you have to go this way (and maybe
even with the floating foundation for 150 sq ft) you'll have a footer
inspection after it's dug and rebar'd, and again after they're poured.

2) Am I correct in assuming I can build a plain box (16" OC studs) with a truss
roof, sliding doors and call it good for now?


Probably. If you're planning on it being a shop, you might want to go
ahead and lay conduit and DC into the slab now. Also think about
where the electrical service will enter.

3) snip Is there any reason why this wouldn't be appropriate?

This is a personal preference. Personally, I'm envious ;-)

4) Would adding electricity to the shed (converting it to a shop) a year from now
have any affect on the permit that I built the shop on? In other words, is a shed
divergently different than workshop?


You'll need to pull another set of permits, sounds like you'd need an
electrical and building permit (here we have to get a building permit
in addition to electrical or plumbing, even if you're not touching
the structure). If you're thinking of a sink or toilet, plumbing too.
You might be able to pull these up front, around here homeowners can
pull permits and keep them open quite a while, it's like $10 a year to
renew. So worth talking to permits and planning to see what is the
least painful approach.


5) Many codes have a 36" min distance to lot line for residences. The city's website
gives no clue on this rule for storage sheds, but I'm assuming it holds for any
structure. Am I correct or is there a general exclusion for non-occupied structures?


That's almost certainly a local ordinance. Around here outbuildings
have a minimum 6-foot setback. You need to check Covenants and
easements too, they can be more restrictive. Usually the planning &
permit department will check easements (ask) but Covenants (e.g., if
you're in a Homeowners Association) are your problem.

6) I intend to make the trusses myself. Does anyone have any experience with the
engineered wood beams and trusses? It's possible to buy pre-built trusses here for
about the same as it would cost to buy the retail lumber, but it's hardly a deal if
they suck.


Well ... it's your shed, but if it were me and I were going to go
with trusses, I'd have them made. This is a case where
"mass-produced" is probably better than home-made. In addition, if
you are doing the truss design, you may have to have a licensed
architect or professional engineer sign off on your plans. That will
probably not be the case if you order them from a supply company.

7) The proposed location of the fundation is 103 feet from the street. Can the
concrete be pumped to the form without the truck mauling my lawn?


Shouldn't be a problem if your lot is "normal". I seemed to recall a
pump truck added a hefty fee (like $800, but it's been 10 yrs). You
might be willing to deal with some grass getting mauled ...


8) In this type of structure, does the poured foundation have to be inspected before
the walls go up?

Ask the inspector. Assuming it's like here, they'll want to inspect
BEFORE you pour the footers, they want to make sure they're big/deep
enough. If they are below grade, I believe they'll inspect after the
footers are poured but before you've built up to grade (either with
cinder blocks or poured). If the footers come all the way up to
grade, e.g., if you have no frost line, then they may not care if you
build the walls as long as they can inspect the footers after the
fact. Around here you only have to give 24 hr notice for inspections
so it's not, for homeowners anyway, a big deal to hold off a day for
the footer inspections. Remember, keep the inspectors happy, a
****sed off inspector can make life miserable so I hear. I have
always found them very reasonable if it is clear you are just trying
to do the job right. I have also had them ignore a minor,
non-safety-issue, Code violation if it's obvious that overall it's
high quality work, but I was ignorant of some obscure portion of the
Code.


If anyone lives nearby, might I request your assistance in planning this?

I'd be happy to help, but need first class tickets ;-)

Best regards to all,