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Adrian Adrian is offline
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Default Stained glass/leaded window repair

HI

wrote:
On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 09:13:06 +0100, Adrian
wrote:

- or tell us where you are ...?


Sorry forgot to say - I'm in Stockport.


A quick Google on

stained glass stockport

shows a variety of companies - who might either do the job for you
(worth asking for a quote, maybe ?) - or poijnt you in the right
direction for supplies

Thanks for the offer of the glass but the
bits that are broken are clear and 'dimpled'. I reckon I can get a
piece from the local glass shop.


They'll likely have something similar.
Watch out for the thickness of the original glass. We tend to use 3mm
for most stained-glass work nowadays - not sure what would have been
used in your original door.

Lots of modern window glass seems to start at 4mm - and you'll find
the job challenging enough without trying to force some over-thickness
glass into the came. Make sure to scrape out the old putty once you've
got the glass out.

Maybe make up a paper template for the pieces that you need (thin paper
placed over the broken glass in-site - mark around the edge of the lead
and then add whatever you need for the bit that fits into the recess in
the came. Make it looser rather than tighter... - sweet-talk your
supplier into cutting it for you....


I'll have a go with a Dremel and see how I go. It's a 1930's house so
I imagine the lead may be tricky to bend.


You may find that it's too easy to bend ! g
As somebody else said - lead eventually goes very soft (corrosion
through acidic stuff in the rain, maybe?) and you may find that it'll
'tear' rather than bending...


Thanks for all the info. provided so far.
It looks like it might make an interesting hobby!

ALDI are about to do a soldering iron kit for £6 that includes an 80W
iron. I read somewhere that you need 120W so I guess 80W would be too
weak. Any thoughts?


Well - you don't want _too much_ heat - generally folks use a 100w-or-so
temperature controlled iron (Weller's my favourite) - but they're not
cheap.

You're not trying to melt the whole came - just enough to make it strong
again - too much heat and you'll lose the whole corner as one soggy blob
of lead....

Flux the joint, little bit of solder on the iron, melt until you see
that there's a bond formed.... then STOP! g

If you can get the window out & work horizontally then it'll be easier.

Lots of resources out there on the web... let us know if you get stuck

Good luck
Adrian