Thread: wall chasing
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John Rumm John Rumm is offline
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Default wall chasing

Stephen wrote:

I did wonder about chasing the external wall. This is thicker but of
course some of it's depth is cavity. Are both sides of a cavity wall
load bearing? I would think the outside bears the weight of all the


potentially... the inner leaf will carry the joists, and quite possibly
the roof load as well.

bricks above and that the inside bears the weight of the joists? I
presume joists do not cross the cavity? Wouldn't that defeat the point
of the cavity?


In modern places the joists do not piece either leaf of the wall - they
terminate in joist hangers that are either bolted to, or more commonly,
built into a mortar line the wall.

Depending on how the pipe runs that may or may not matter. (in fact
even if the pipe has a little water left in it, it does not usually matter.


In which case a lockshield with drain would be the easiest way to go.
Would it matter there was only a drain on one side of the radiator
though? Would I need a drain on the TRV side too?


One side is fine. That will let you drain the pipe and the rad. You can
then remove the rad a drain the other leg of pipe if you want straight
from the TRV.

In the past, I have tee'd off, into a service valve, then straight
through the wall into the gully the other side


I had not realised you were taking the tee outside; what a good idea
(where possible).


Not an idea I take credit for - remember seeing someone doing it on TV
many years ago (may have been a tomorrow's world special on houses of
the future), but it works well. Just a quick turn with a screw driver
lets you drain down without any mess and no titting about with hose
pipes or leaky drain valves etc.

Regarding chasing for electrics, which is what the thread was about
before I hijacked it, when fixing oval conduit does it matter if you
use solvent adhesive? I use the cheap Tool station glue screws. I
wasn't sure if I had to use the solvent free version or whether the
solvent version would damage the plastic? I think the solvent version
sets faster so would be preferable if it is compatible with the
conduit plastic?


This is just for getting the conduit to stay put in the chase I presume?
Yup any glue is fine, as would be a couple of large head clout nails
(for the avoidance of doubt, knocked in beside the conduit with the head
holding it it place - not driven through it! ;-))




--
Cheers,

John.

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