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David W.E. Roberts
 
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Default Replacing damaged joists


"Michael McNeil" wrote in message
om...
"David W.E. Roberts" wrote in message

...

I think you are about right except in a couple of places:

snip
AFAIK you secure the joist to the joist hanger with nails - at least

there
are loads of nail shaped holes in the sides of the hangers :-) Before

you do
this you may need to knock small wedges between the bottom of the hanger

and
the end of the joist to ensure the joist is tight up against the

floorboards
above.


Use zinc treated clouts and do not use wedges rather choose a size of
hanger that is a little smaller than the joist so you have to notch
out an housing. This will allow you to put the plasterboard flush.

snip

This bit of advice was from long and bitter experience of trying to fit such
things so that they hold something else tight (if you get my drift).

What I expect to happen is that everything is offered up and the joist
hangers are bolted tight then there is just a little play (millimetre or so)
when the props are taken away. This can be taken up by putting fillers
between the joist and the hanger (wedges was the wrong term) to take up any
flex in the hangers and get the joist really tight against the floor above.

However if the OP is going to take up the floorboards then this problem may
go away - althoug I suspect to get the joists perfectly flat across the tops
you may have to pad between the joist and at least one hanger. [Or I may
just be cack handed and a victim of Sod's Law].

Which leads me to wonder how level joists are in new buildings, and in old
buildings which have settled over the years....

Cheers
Dave R