On 13 Aug, 11:00, Osprey wrote:
On 12 Aug, 13:46, "StephenM" wrote:





Just mark the joint out carefully on the three sides of the post, score
all
of the lines with a straightedge and box knife, then use a skillsaw to cut
the square shoulder. *A few minutes with a sharp chisel and a mallet will
get the rest of the waste down to the lines, and you're done. *It's not
rocket surgery.

Yup.

Make the housing a consistent depth rather than tapered, *and just cut the
top edge at a 45-degree angle. This way it's easy to cut out the bulk of the
material with a series of through crosscuts with a circular saw. Cleanup
with a chisle becomes much easier

The top edge does not have to be tight as braces are designed to work just
under compression. The side and bottom faces of the housing bear all the
force. *Typically a gap will develop there anyway with the inevitable
lumber-yard wood shrinkage.

-Steve

** Posted fromhttp://www.teranews.com**

To check what you mean here ... the post is meeting beam at a 45
degree angle, if I read you right, I should cut housing a constant
depth, then cut angle on the end of brace to match ? *keeping brace
location overall angle at 45 degree.

I- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If I follow you, as per this sketch: http://tinyurl.com/5764b5

Is it worth putting any dowels or biscuits in as well, the steel
plates will be providing the structural strength, just wondedred if
dowels or pins would help keep joint tighter together.
I will be gluing up with Polyurethane (Gorilla Glue)