On 2008-08-01, Ignoramus25244 wrote:
Don, maybe you are right. Can you point me to an example of a 5C
drawtube system?
Well ... for an *example* -- there is what came with my
Clausing. A lever at the outboard end of the headstock which operates
some levers in a hub to pull the collet in firmly as you operate the
lever, and it works through a bearing so the hub can rotate without the
lever needing to rotate. Connected to the hub is a tube with an OD of
1-1/4" (on mine -- needs a 1-3/8 bore through the spindle -- yours will
handle larger pieces. The tube is hollow, and the end nearest the
spindle nose has a female thread to match the outer thread on the end of
the collets. The ID must be large enough to pass a 1" diameter
workpiece through the spindle. The collets will handle up to 1-1/2"
stock -- but only short pieces for sizes over 1" diameter. 1" and
smaller will pass all the way through.
At the spindle nose end, there is an adaptor which is a piece of
precision hardened steel with a ground finish which fits into the taper
of the spindle (in my case Morse taper 4-1/2 -- probably MT-5 or larger
for your spindle), with a hole which is a slip fit for the cylindrical
part of the collet (and with a pin to keep the collet from rotating in
the adapter while you're tightening it. The outboard end of the adaptor
has a flange a bit larger than the small end of your L1 spindle nose, so
a protector which mounts on the taper can be used for extracting the
adaptor when you want to put a chuck back on the spindle.
So -- you put on the nose protector, slap in the nose adaptor
(which fits the spindle's internal taper), feed the collet through the
nose adaptor, and screw the drawtube onto it (by rotating the hub) until
a movement of the lever will firmly grip stock in the collet. Then you
flip an item projecting from the hub so it engages notches in the piece
permanently attached to the outboard end of the spindle. (This looks
like a gear with very shallow teeth, and there may be one on your
spindle already.)
The length of the drawtube needs to match the spindle. When I
converted my spindle from the original 2-1/4x8 thread to an L-00, I had
to make a 1" long extension piece for the drawtube -- one external
thread to match the internal at the end of the drawtube and a matching
internal thread to accept the collets.
Now -- what I have described is a lever collet closer, which is
nicer for production operations, but there are also ones with a bearing
and a handwheel on the outboard end of the spindle, which you just screw
onto the collet to tighten it, and unscrew to loosen. Not bad, but not
as nice as the lever style.
So -- first you'll need to verify what the internal taper is on
your spindle. MT-5 is a first guess, but maybe larger. Then you'll
need the overall length of the spindle. Then you'll need to either
order what you need, or to make your own or find one on eBay and adapt
it. The length can be fixed, so one for a shorter spindle can be made
to work.
I had to order a new nosepiece and protector from Royal when I
got my L-00 spindle -- but I understand that Royal no longer sells these
for anything but CNC machines these days. (Scott Logan - is that
right?)
The handwheel type is fairly easy to build, if you can get some
tube which will fit loosely in the spindle, and which you can internally
thread to match the collet thread. The lever system is quite a bit more
complex, and it is easier to find and adapt one than to make one from
scratch without one to examine.
Haunt e-Bay with the Morse taper and spindle bore and length
measurements and you will eventually find one.
Maybe others can point you to someone who still makes them for
manual machines.
Enjoy,
DoN.
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