View Single Post
  #28   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 313
Default Soldering a tractor radiator (disaster story)

On Thu, 17 Jul 2008 22:22:23 -0500, "Don Young"
wrote:


"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...
wrote:

A radiator shop will probably 'dip' it for you, or maybe a machine
shop with a hot-tank.

A high melting temp solder can't be that hard to find- maybe some
'lead free' for one and 'lead' solder for the other?

We just don't give up here- but hey, you knew that when you
posted...


I'll go and look at it again tomorrow. If it looks any better than I
expect, I might have another go.

Chris

Others have pretty well covered the basics. Don't give up yet. A piece of
copper wire formed into a ring can bridge the gap around the pipe.


Use copper tubing. Make a ring to fit around the filler tube, and
solder it in. Fills large gaps, evenly.

Do not
use 60/40 or 63/37 solder if you can help it. Radiator shops generally would
only use these for tinning the surfaces. The 63/37 goes directly from solid
to liquid and the 60/40 is almost the same. If you get some 50/50 or 40/60
it will have a pasty or mushy state that is easier to control. Warm up the
entire area but do not try to melt all the solder at once. Using a soldering
iron (or copper) is easiest but a little practice with a small torch will
enable you to solder a small part of the area without the rest coming
unsoldered. It just takes a little practice to get the hang of it.

(One of my current projects is repairing the severely broken, welded,
reinforced, and rebroken frame rails on a 1962 Super Major with Ford 712
Loader and 723 backhoe.)

Don Young


** Posted from
http://www.teranews.com **