Steve,

Here's how I install a pre-hung door:

My technique is very similar. I may have missed it in your list, but I
find it easiest to pull the hinge pins and remove the door from the frame
while I install the frame. Whenever possible, I also like to fasten the
hinge side directly to the stud. Obviously, this isn't always possible if
the stud is out of plumb. I also like to replace at least one screw in
all three hinges with a long 3" screw that goes into the stud.

I rehang the door on the hinges after I have the hinge jamb plumb and
fastened securely. Then I adjust the top and latch jamb as needed.

Anthony

1. Stand the door in the opening to make sure it's going to fit all
around. I try to do this without removing the nails that hold
everything square, but that's not always possible. If the door doesn't
fit, you have to shave the obstructing parts of the opening.

2. With the door centered in the opening, decide how much shimming is
needed behind the hinges. The last door I installed needed almost 1" of
spacers, so I had to cut pieces of plywood.

3. Set the door aside, and install the spacers on both sides of the
opening. Use plenty of fasteners, but keep them away from where the
hinge screws will go.

4. Remove the nails that keep the door square in the jamb, then set the
assembly in the opening against the spacers you just installed. Drill a
temporary screw through the frame into the top spacer. You can put this
screw through one of the hinge screw holes. Don't drive it all the way
home.

5. Use a long level to make sure the jamb is straight and plumb.
Remember to check for plumb from both the door and wall edges of the
jamb. Add pairs of tapered shims behind each hinge to do fine
adjustments. Put one shim in from the front and one from the back of
the door at the same time. Push them in and out together to keep the
shim surface flat.

6. Put a long screw through the jamb at each hinge. Remove one of the
hinge screws and replace it with your long screw. If you're installing
an exterior door, you can hide the screw behind the weatherstripping.

You have now done the hard part of the job: getting the hinge side
straight and plumb.

6. Make sure the top jamb is square and level.

7. Repeat the plumbing and shimming process on the latch-side jamb. Use
one screw through each shim.

8. Close the door and check the gap all the way around. It should be
about 1/16" on the hinge side and 1/8" on the other sides. If it isn't,
you'll have to pull your screws and re-plumb.

If you get the door plumb and square in the wall, it won't swing either
open or closed by itself. Of course, if the wall itself isn't plumb,
you'll have to make some compromises--no point in having a perfectly
hung door that looks stupid in the wall.