On Jul 4, 8:05 am, "HeyBub" wrote:
infiniteMPG wrote:
We just finished up putting tongue & groove pine boards in the ceiling
of our porch. The porch area is about 25-feet wide so we trimmed down
14-foot and 12-foot boards so there is a single alternating joint in
each row. Looks good and we needed to stain it so we sampled more
stains then we can shake a stick at and decided on Minwax's Ipswitch
Pine. Just now finished up all the staining (and am barely able to
type from the overhead work) and it looks great with one exception.
Some of the board parts have a high shine to them and other parts are
very dull and flat. Was just differences in parts of the wood as you
can see the patterns in the shiny areas. Biggest problem is the bare
pine was light and when you see the light reflection on the shiny
spots it looks like we missed spots but we didn't.

I think that's the consequence of real wood - it's not uniform.

Actually, it's a consequence of not knowing what you're doing and not
doing the research beforehand. I do lots of woodwork and have to
worry about the completed product looking too uniform. If it looks
too uniform it starts looking like it's fake. I've learned to leave
in some of the imperfections as indication of natural products and
handwork.

Sorry, OP, but you should ask the questions and do the research before
you do the work. As FF noted, pine is a funky wood to stain as it
gets blotchy without pre-treatment with a wood conditioner/sealer.
Stain is not a finish treatment, so you should have planned on
topcoating it anyway. Since your major objection is the difference in
sheen, any polyurethane, varnish, really any clear coat at all, will
solve that problem.

R