He's suggesting you cut your legs in half or start that way. Then cut
a 3/8" inch notch out of each side (facing each other) And the tennon
you can cut most of it with a table saw and bandsaw or hand saw.

The downside I'm seeing is the plan looks like it's suppose to be a
flush mount with a long rod through the entire length. That you could
do by laminating the crossbrace after cutting space for the rod the
length of the board. Then I dry fit the table legs and brace then make
some marks for pins and simply use pins to keep the brace from
turning. Or you could use the Kreig pocket hole system to secure it
from rotating on the rod.


On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 19:10:36 -0500, "Upscale"
wrote:


"Doug Winterburn" wrote in message
You can do the mortises using 3/4" material glued and laminated together
after ploughing out 3/8" deep on each half to receive the tenon. You
could use 1-1/2" material for a beefier look and make the mortise
ploughs about 1/2" deep for 1" tenons.

I have routers and chisels and can get access to my tablesaw which currently
resides at a friend's place. But, I'm not understanding completely what
you're saying to me. Are you suggesting that I basically cut a slot along
the centre wide edge of both halves and essentially put in a floating
through tenon? I was intending to use 2x8 or 2x10 lumber for the vertical
and horizontal pieces. With the 10" blade on the tablesaw, I can cut close
to 4" deep for the slots.