On Sat, 21 Jun 2008 08:15:14 -0500, "Dave" wrote:


"John Popelish" wrote in message
...
Dave wrote:

Okay, so I could probably replace them with two stud-mount (is that
right?) diodes, with the cathodes bolted to the heat-sink? Does that
sound right?

That would be my guess, if the central rivet clamps some rear contact to
the aluminum. If there is no electrical contact (including a normal
silicon or Schottky diode drop) between the stab-ons and the panel, then I
am stuck.

Why are you so intent on replacing them?


Wanting to replace them because the output of the charger is only 10.5
volts, not 13.6 or anything near that. It only charges a battery halfway,
and doesn't start a car easily. Trying to fix that.

Dave


If you measured the output voltage with the charger _not_ connected to
the battery, 10.5 volts may be quite reasonable. Simple chargers
rarely have filter capacitors, so, without a battery connected, you'll
be measuring pulsating DC - your meter will read some sort of
"average" voltage of that waveform.


--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca