NOTHING CUTS IT
Well I've done some scraping (claw scaper best) and sanding, and have tried
a few chemicals that are next to worthless. They sit on the surface, bubble
a bit, then when wiped off it just looks like a cleaning. They will just
melt a very thin top layer, but cannot cut down to the wood, kinda like a
spilled tequila. I am serious. Maybe after thirty coats (liters). I tried
the Oatey (with MEK) and $5 for 250mLLepage Poly Super Strippa extra
strength (with methylene chloride). Ive got half a dozen things with methyl
alcohol and the like, but its not even worth opening the bottle. Total
complete joke waste of time, as ever. Its much better to attack with tools
or sandpaper, no matter how affixed. Lots of labour and only half done. So
at least it wont be coming off anytime soon. So I say again to anyone who
needs to do this, good luck, youre going to need it.

FLUSHING THE CHLORINE (WONT STICK)
Next pertinent ngQuestion. Like I said, especially where there has been
water exposure (you know what black wood looks like). I have concentrated
liquid chlorine from a pool, and lots of it, cheap. It bleaches that black
to a very bright white-like. But in the past after the few times when I
have done this the poly does not want to stick to it very well. It
literally just flakes (falls) off not long after. So can anyone recommend a
procedure, or series or neutralizing chemicals, or soaps or anything please
do. I have tried a blast of water and drying, but its just flakey. I am
open to any suggestions, however primitive. I have not done this chlorine
bleach test enough to remember how much water and how fast it turns black,
so that the flush doesnèt ruin the bleaching effect, but again, after 25
years on this table its a black and white, with a little gray area. This
chlorine, which is stored indoors at pool stores in 6 foot Dia. by 12 foot
high plastic silo containers, if splashed on jeans (or anything) will turn
that spot white, threadbare like silk within a day, and soon be nothing but
a round hole.

What I did learn this year is that one of the 2x12x8 pine boards got rain &
snow soaked all through the winter and is water logged, and it strips much
more completely and easily than the dry boards. I know now how to make it
bright agian, but now I need to learn or experiment on how to make it hold a
finish after that treatment. Ideas, anybody: a little chemistry for a
dummy.


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