Like you I would start over by cleaning out as much old caulk, rotten wood
and decayed concrete as possible. Might even use a pressure washer and or
compressed air to get where you can't reach.

I don't think "hydrolic cement" is necessary, this isn't underwarer and any
concrete or mortar will block water once cured anyway. Mortar isn't very
strong if you go too big, you need some aggragate for strength. Use a
general concrete mix if you can build a form around the gap and pour it in
you are all set. Grout could also be used but you would need a very tight
form as it goes in almost like a liquid, maybe not, 3" is a bit much for
grout

If the access is difficult and the door otherwise sturdy and firm then you
might fill the void with expanding foam insulation. With the nozzle on the
can you can inject it into some very tight spaces and it will expand to fill
every nitch even upward (cement will always follow gravity down and often
flows out of forms). If not exposed, this should last as long as a cement
patch. Be sure to get the right foam, some of it is for caulking purposes
dosen't expand much and isn't very hard after curing. Read the can, it will
be obvious. Best part is if you do replace the door, this stuff can be
pulled out easily so you can make a definative fix later. Cement will
require some bashing at least.

"bonnie" wrote in message
...
There is a space between my Bilco door and the concrete foundation that
is about 3 inches wide. Between the door and the foundation is wood and
unfortunately it leaks quite a bit there. The previous owners (there for
20 years) said it leaked maybe twice. Bull.

I know it wasn't a definitive fix but I tried caulking above it to
prevent the rainwater from seeping down. I can't seem to get it right
though. So I was thinking of cleaning it up as best I could from
underneath and using hydraulic cement (with gloved hands). It would
overlay surfaces made of cement, wood, and metal, in that order.

I don't really like this solution because the water will continue to rot
the wood, even though it may not leak into the basement. But outside of
removing the whole Bilco assembly and part of my deck, I don't see any
way around it.

As usual, any advise is much appreciated.

thanks,
bonnie