"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
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Arthur2 wrote:
"BobS" wrote in message
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"Arthur2" wrote in message
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Hi.
I have just cut some 24mm thick oak treads to a length
but there are 3 or 4 lengths where the last inch or so have
an end split/shake. Most of the split will of course be hidden
by the string. But should I do something to stabilize or repair
these imperfections?
And how should I do it?

Thanks.

Arthur

Arthur,

Unless these are boxed stairs or you have a center support under each
tread - 24mm is not really thick enough for a stair tread.

As for the end splits - you could drill a small hole all the way through
at the end of the split to stop it and fill that in with an epoxy. Use a
colorant such as artists acrylic paints mixed with the epoxy to either
blend it in or make a contrast. If the splits are long enough, you
could inlay a butterfly that spans the split to add a bit of a
decorative touch.

For now though, I would suggest you research what the minimum tread
thickness should be for the type of stairs you're building and that you
meet and/or exceed code.

http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/artic...ticle_id=60182

Bob S.

The splits only extend about an inch in from the end of the treads
and although visible will be mainly hidden within the string.
I will be routing a closed stringer from at least 38mm thick pine for a
13 tread staircase.
The treads are 28" wide.
I've seen many 'flatpack' staircases sold with 22mm mdf treads (and 9mm
plywood risers)
so I think 20mm oak should be strong enough with perhaps a centre support
as you and others have suggested.

Arthur
I agree. My stairs are 19mm MDF and are fully adequate. The ones that
aren't are the 1/2" antique victorian pine ones, where people can, do, and
have stuck their feet through.

Just fill they ends with plastic wood and plane rather than sand.

I do not understand why you are using something as nasty as pine for the
stringer: either use proper oak, if you want to stain it, or MDF which is
far more stable and paints well.


Well I might go for a more handsome wood for the strings but the reason I'm
looking at pine is because i want to achieve the painted riser
and treated plain oak tread effect.so the risers will be painted ply.
I also want to avoid a 12" wide string to create something less 'heavy' in
appearance.
So 10" max width would need to be at least 38mm thick.
I was considering buying the graded C16 or C24 timbers and asking them to
plane it all round.
If I went for oak I think I would have buy 50mm x 275mm which is about
£25/metre before delivery.(eg SL HARDWOODS)
And that would be at least £200 before delivery.

Arthur