On Jun 1, 2:13 am, Tom Horne wrote:
wrote:
On May 29, 9:41�pm, ransley wrote:
On May 29, 6:40�pm, wrote:

On Tue, 27 May 2008 22:58:28 -0400, "John Gilmer"
wrote:
It really comes down to handful of questions:
1) � Do you want to live essentially a "normal" life while the utility power
is out? � If so, you get something that will run your airconditioner and
your water heater at the same time plus about 4 kW more. � When you are on
generator power, use some common sense and don't take showers and use the
electric stove at the same time unless you turn off the central air
conditioning.
2) � If you can live without central air for the duration, but don't want to
get carried away with energy management you might want 8 to 10 kW. � This
will run your water heater and part of your stove at the same time. � Again,
don't be foolish and try to run everything at the same time.
3) � Otherwise, you should get a 5 kW unit. � That's enough for a window A/C
and "some" use of the electric stove, water heater, microwave. � That's the
arrangement we have. � We also have a deep well water pump. � When the power
goes out for a time (like a few days), �I get by with running it a few hours
in the morning and another few others in the evening. � We can take quick
showers, cook meals, watch TV in an window A/C cooled family room, and even
run the dishwasher. �We can't do laundry and we actually turn off loads like
the water pump, the water heater, etc. except when we have cut other loads
to the bone.
** Posted fromhttp://www.teranews.com**
The thing a lot of people ignore is "feeding the monster" as folks
called it after Charlie here.
These things, even small ones, use an extraordinary amount of fuel. A
120 gallon propane tank is not going to last very long, maybe a week
if you take it easy but you can burn 120 gallons in 3 or 4 days if you
are running your house like normal. If you are carrying cans from the
gas station plan on going every day or two with a truck load.
You will also start to appreciate how cheap electricity is from the
utility when you fill up those tanks and cans,- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
They are monsters, and the auto cycling of those auto gens can cost
$10-20 �month for their "self tests" �Nothin is free. Buy gen and its
a new kid to feed, at least installing a transfer panel gives options.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

please cite that monthly cost,,,, want link.

i doubt is anywhere near that, they run basiclly unloaded for 5
minutes 4 times a month..

how do you get 10 to 20 bucks a month from that?

If they are properly installed they will run until the coolant
temperature reaches a preset value. With most of the generators I've
installed that's about fifteen minutes. Then they transfer the load
back to public power, then ten more minutes for no load cool down prior
to automatic stop.
--
Tom Horne

"This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous
for general use." Thomas Alva Edison



Well the new generator is in the garage. I finished reading the
instruction manual and all it said about extension cords was "don't
use old frayed cords". One of my neighbors said he plans to use 14
gauge. I went to Lowe's yesterday and looked ... the lawn and garden
equipment we have uses 16 gauge. The generator will be sitting
outside the garage and the cord that came with it will slip under the
garage door - so the extension cords will all be inside. It seems to
me that 16 gauge would be sufficient to run things like refrigerators,
TVs, microwave and lights. We do not have room air conditioners. I
hesitate to invest a lot into extension cords now because I am
seriously thinking about buying one of those kits next year and
connecting it to that. What do those of you who connect by extension
cords use with yours? Thanks. (I bought two two-gallon jugs of
gasoline today and put about one half tank in my car and I'm still
reeling from the sticker shock. )