On Thu, 29 May 2008 07:30:31 -0700 (PDT), Hoosierpopi
wrote:


I also want teh table top to be all in one plane, but want the section
the blade will travel to be removable (when I cut too deep and scar it
- or plow slots into it!

You can route an insert for a piece of hardboard, but I wouldn't do it..

You NEED to cut deeper than the piece that you're cutting, just as you adjust
the blade height on a table saw higher than your work..

You'll find that if you don't "pre-shape" the cutting area by rotating the
blade, (not safe in MHO), you'll develop a 90 degree cut in the table and
possibly a 45 degree cut, though most folks leave the head at 90 degrees and
unless ripping, and use a jig to keep the work at a 45 degree angle..

If you keep your saw tuned, you'll find yourself using the saw kerf(s) in the
table as guides to where the blade passes.. YMWV

BTW.. On my RAS, the elevation handle slides over the rod and locks with a pin
in the rod and slots in the handle..
I extended it with a piece of water pipe with matching holes and slots and it
worked fine for years.. (I recently gave the saw to a friend)


mac

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