Thx!

--Kent

(Bill Wallace) wrote in message . com...
Well, I did say $20-$30...

The cheapest I could find was indeed $30 at Rockler

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/showdet... catid=7&DID=6

The more expensive fixtures have a toggle clamp but they are more like
$60-$90 but do come with more screws, etc. The link I posted above
comes with a jig and the drill bit and the stop collar so even though
you have to clamp it with your own clamp it has everything you need.

Just search on "pocket" at either Woodcraft or Rockler and you'll see
all kinds of fixtures and even production machines. I can't wait until
our new Castell two motor unit gets installed at my shop. ;^)


(Kent P. Iler) wrote in message . com...
Any recommendations for jigs?

--Kent

(Bill Wallace) wrote in message . com...
Good question. In my experience, if you are putting two pocket screws
and some glue, this joint will never come un-done or loosen.

A few points:
Pocket screws come in two thread patterns coarse for soft woods and
fine for harder woods. This is partly because of another feature, they
are self threading and the coarse screws will break trying to drive
into Oak, etc. So you only drill the pocket and the screw itself
drills a into the joined piece. Finally, they are driven in with a
square head socket drive, usually supplied with the purchase of the
fixture. These allow for very good drilling grip. I've broken screws
when I forgot to set my drill gun to the slip setting.

You can drill these in with an electric drill but a screw gun with a
strong slip clutch set to the highest tourqe is the best so you don't
spin or break the screw.

Pretty much all face frame kitchen cabinets are built with pocket
screws now and they ain't fallin apart anytime soon.


(Kent P. Iler) wrote in message . com...
Are the pocket screws as strong as other joints that you'd typically
use? I guess I'm thinking that the screws will loosen sooner than a
strong joint will.

--Kent

(Bill Wallace) wrote in message . com...
Kent,

You should learn about pocket screws. You can get a small gig for
$20-$30 dollars. They are very strong and will allow you to cut the
wood exactly as the plans show. They should work in most locations.

Three considerations:

First, place them where they will be hidden although they can be
plugged with purchased wood dowels shaped appropriately but its no
fun.

Secondly, be careful in planning, you need room to get the screw gun
in and in some spaces it might be too small and hand driving them is
difficult. Sometimes, just the order of assembly can solve that
problem.

Finally, always clamp the joints firmly in place befor driving the
screws. The low cost fixtures make a 15 degreee pocket and the screws
tend to want to lift the joining piece.

"Kent P. Iler" wrote in message news:sHWUa.142123$GL4.35974@rwcrnsc53...
Hi,

I'm a beginning wood worker. I've built basic things many years ago, and
built a pretty big jungle gym/swing set in our backyard, but nothing
requiring the accuracy/joints that this will require. However, I do have a
decent selection of power tools and have decided to tackle a new project.

I purchased a set of plans for a piece that my wife liked the looks of.
We're expecting in mid-October, and I would like to get this done by then.
When I got the plans, I was shocked to see that they don't have any joints
for the dresser. They just plan on nailing and gluing most ends together,
including the drawers! There is a rabbet on the back of board A to fit the
back of the dresser, but that is it.

For those of you that would just like to look at the plans and make
recommendations without reading further, the plans are he
http://www.iler.com/plans/dresser-armoire.pdf. Thanks in advance for any
help that you can offer.

Here's a little more info if you care to read:

I'd like to get a jig for my router that will do dovetails (and the other
joints), and use that for the drawers. However, I don't know what would be
best for the rest of the joints. Can someone look at these plans and
recommend proper joints? The jig I'm planning on buying will do sliding
dovetails, mortise and tenons, dovetails, half-blind dovetails, and
supposedly over 100 more. I did order a few books on joinery, but I don't
have them yet. Obviously the jig just helps, but I need to know what to do
in order for the jig to be successful. I'm not buying it in hopes that it
will automagically make the joints for me. I will be reading up on what
joints work best for this type of project, but I'm hoping to get a head
start and recommendations for the experience folks here.

I'd like to build this so that it could be strong enough to be passed to my
children for their kids, or at least hold up for many many years. I'm tired
of the pressed board kits from Wal-mart that fall apart when you move them,
or even after 3 years if you don't move them.

Anyway, I'm planning on using a harder wood than pine for most of this, but
I need to balance strength and price - I'm not going with Walnut or Oak. I
was thinking Maple. Any recommendations as to wood would be appreciated,
too.

For now, we're going to finish this in white, as it will match the crib and
other furniture in the room. However, if it's ever refinished, it would be
nice to keep staining as an option.

FYI, the plans were purchased on a large sheet, and I put them into a
document that I could print and work with so I don't mess up the original.
You'll notice the folds in some of the pictures/graphics on the plans.

Thank you for your time!

-- Kent Iler
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