On Sun, 11 May 2008 10:46:06 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:

:Ross Herbert wrote in message
.. .
: On Fri, 9 May 2008 12:06:50 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:
:
: :To then be able to solder to coarser wire.
: :Assuming coating will not melt off/evaporate at soldering iron
:temperature
: :I tend to grip between 2 fingertips and abraid with the finest grade of
:wet
: :and dry paper against a fingertip and turning wire around and repeating a
: :few times. Would abraiding against a block of rubber be better or some
ther
: rocess altogether ? for minimised chance of localised (so failure point)
: :weakness due to stretching near the stripping point. Perhaps a small
: :fine-grade grind stone in a Dremmel with direction of rotation towards
:the
: :bulk of wire, turning the wire .
:
:
: Forget the burning or scraping options, and there is no need to go out
:trying to
: find a source of xylene. Use a rapid paint stripper - it works
:excellently.
: Leave it for a minute and then wipe off with a tissue.
:
:I tried some ordinary "slow" paint stripper , gloopy stuff. Scooped into one
f those 2cc polythene bottles that expensive military connectors come in.
:Has a flap lid so can seal and reuse. That takes some time to soften.
:Contained dichloromethane and methanol.
:What to look for in contents of rapid versions or trade-name?

The slow stuff is no good...

Here's an MSDS for a brand I know works
http://msds.orica.com/pdf/shess-en-c...0703515901.pdf

The active ingredient is Methylene Chloride so an alternative with that chemical
in a similar proportion will do the job.