Smitty Two wrote in message
news
In article ,
"N_Cook" wrote:

Ross Herbert wrote in message
...
On Fri, 9 May 2008 12:06:50 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:

:To then be able to solder to coarser wire.
:Assuming coating will not melt off/evaporate at soldering iron
temperature
:I tend to grip between 2 fingertips and abraid with the finest grade
of
wet
:and dry paper against a fingertip and turning wire around and
repeating a
:few times. Would abraiding against a block of rubber be better or
some
other
rocess altogether ? for minimised chance of localised (so failure
point)
:weakness due to stretching near the stripping point. Perhaps a small
:fine-grade grind stone in a Dremmel with direction of rotation
towards
the
:bulk of wire, turning the wire .


Forget the burning or scraping options, and there is no need to go out
trying to
find a source of xylene. Use a rapid paint stripper - it works
excellently.
Leave it for a minute and then wipe off with a tissue.

I tried some ordinary "slow" paint stripper , gloopy stuff. Scooped into
one
of those 2cc polythene bottles that expensive military connectors come
in.
Has a flap lid so can seal and reuse. That takes some time to soften.
Contained dichloromethane and methanol.
What to look for in contents of rapid versions or trade-name?

--

Just curious, but if you're winding your own coils, why not use the
thermal strip variety of magnet wire? Mechanically stripping the fine
stuff is a pain.

Because I have a few hundred (maybe thousands ) miles of laquered fine
copper wire.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/