In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
RobertL wrote:

On May 8, 2:35 pm, "Roger Mills" wrote:
I've recently been re-plumbing my airing cupboard, in order to
replace the hot cylinder which was leaking. Since the new one has a
bigger coil than the old one, the primary connections are further
apart causing the pipework to need re-rigging - so I decided to
convert from Y-Plan to S-Plan while I was at it, using Honeywell
22mm 2-port valves. I've also used several Peglar quarter turn
full-bore lever valves, to enable various bits to be isolated
easily. The Honeywell and Peglar valves were all supplied with 22mm
compression fittings, and I was amazed at the amount of torque
required to get them 'tight'.

Wherever possible, I initially made the joints 'off-line' by holding
the valve body in a vice while doing up the compression nut. On
numerous occasions I found that after doing up the nut with a 15"
adjustable spammer, using far more torque than *felt* [1] right, if
I took it apart again the olive would still rotate fairly freely on
the (copper) pipe.

Is this what usually happens, or was I doing something wrong?

I eventually got them tight by using even more brute force - and
then put a smear of Screwfix 'no nonsense' leak sealant round both
sides of the olive for the good measure - and all seems ok. But the
amount of force I had to apply still worries me a bit.

Any comments?


Are you sure you weren't putting a 22mm fitting on an older 3/4 inch
OD pipe? You can get special 'fat' olives to cope with the small
difference. I had this problem in my 1960s house.

Robert

Yes. One end of one or two of the isolator valves were on 3/4" pipe - for
which I used the proper 3/4" imperial olives. But the problems to which I
initially referred were with brand new 22mm copper pipe, using the 22mm
olives supplied with the fittings.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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