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...
On Mon, 5 May 2008 19:21:16 +0300, "Tzortzakakis Dimitrios"
wrote:


Ï "Tantalust" Ýãñáøå óôï ìÞíõìá
m...
"NB" wrote in message
...
Who is W_TOM and why has he appeared in every single thread that has
contained those keywords since 2001???

He an obsessive-compulsive disorder victim, apparently driven by some
kind
of bizarre fetish involving ground rods.


What kind of ground rods? I prefer steel core, copper clad ones:-) I even
have the special heavy hammer

I'm on 2000' of sand, and at the moment, my house earth is the copper

2000'? I am only 5'10":-)

water pipes, but the water corp keep adding plastic bits here and
there, so I don't really trust it. I was going to hammer in a 20'
length of 3/4" copper pipe under a large tree which gets the drain
from my grey water. Probably the best I can do.

Perhaps you should get a proper earthing electrode, with a spiked end and a
stell core? It would be really difficult to hammer 20' of 3/4" copper pipe.
They are not that expensive.
I'm not a full bottle on earth loops yet so i don't know about leaving
the water mains connection still connected.
The earth loops matter only in electronic circuits, like amplifiers and the
like. In electricity, the play no role, in fact they reduce even further the
earth resintance.
What's the best way to test an earth?
I heard once that a large electric radiator (fire) connected between
active (hot) and the earth will glow as per normal if the earth has
good capacity. Perhaps a current comparison between the earth return
and neutral return would be more informative?

Although the neutral is at zero potential, still carries a large current.
The earth not. Since the neutral point of the LV side of the local
substation is earthed, for the electricity "is all the same" between neutral
and earth, depending on the neutral earthing system.


--
Tzortzakakis Dimitrios
major in electrical engineering
mechanized infantry reservist
hordad AT otenet DOT gr