Door stops: On a wood framed door, you start with the raw 2x4 (or
whatever) frame, then nail up some 1x6 stock as the finished surface
(casing) between the inner edge of the building and the outer sheathing.
Apply siding, brick molding and any other finishing material you want.
The garage door is installed inside the building but the framing is
never quite right so there are gaps between the door and the casing,
1/4" to 1/2" gaps are quite normal. As the very last thing, the 1/2" x2"
door stops are nailed in place with the door down. These are thin enough
to take up any imperfections and make it weather tight. A metal shelled
building will need the same strips in metal, check with your dealer.

Metal framed buildings: We have metal framed buildings (prefabbed metal
support beams with metal siding) and pole barns (wood posts with metal
siding). Same difference, they tend to be not very square. If the door
looks cockeyed, it is likely that something is not square. Take some
diagonal measurements to see what's going on.

The garage door is installed completely inside the building inner wall.
It works best if all is square and flat, the door tracks can accommodate
some not so flat conditions, tends to bind a bit but it works. It also
works if the opening is not square, you just use the door stops to fit
it up tight. Looks funny but it works.


stryped wrote:
On Apr 29, 9:29 am, RoyJ wrote:
You either don't have things installed square or enough tension on the
cables. When the door is fully up, there still should be some residual
tension. That is what keeps it in the upright position. For install, the
door is set in place on it's track, then you start cranking the torsion
spring(s)

Big warning he Torsion springs are nasty to tighten or loosen. You
need to have the correct size of bars (various mfgs use different
sizes), the bars need to be good cold rolled (the hot rolled may bend at
the wrong time), and you need to know what you are doing. Failure to
heed these leads to a spinning bar and no teeth left in your jaw.

It also sounds like you may have mixed up the support brackets on the
track. The track is at a very slight angle to the door frame so that it
does not rub all the way down. The hinges match, each hinge up has a
slightly longer throw than the one below it. The door runs freely until
the last few inches, then moves out to contact the door stops.

And you did figure out that the door is installed in the frame with all
the functional checkout, THEN you add the door stops to seal the opening?


Forgive my ignorance, but what are you calling "door stops"?

This building is a metal framed building by the way. I am doing the
best I can. I may not have wound the spring tightly enough. I also
know that one pulley is about an inch lower than the other. And for
osme reason the door looks a little cockeyed at the fully up position
but when I measure it it is ok.