" wrote in
:

On Apr 23, 11:24 am, "Garage_Woodworks" .@. wrote:
wrote in message

You missed my point. You should always get your jigs, measuring
devices, etc. as close to perfect as you can.

I missed it because you never made this point. Where was it posted?

Sorry... you are right. I simply took it for granted that one wold
assume that if you take the time to build a jig, you would build one
to the best of your abilities OR requirements. To me, a jig should
work to tolerances that satisfy one's own needs. To me that was a
given for any experienced craft person, but you have made a good point
about taking things for granted. So to simplify, I believe you should
build a jig to tolerances that do the job they are designed to do as
good as possible, but with the thought of repeatability foremost in
mind.


You stated that you don't understand folks that like to use their
table saw for precision miter work.

It was a global statement that was obviously another avenue of
confusion. I should have said, "I don't understand why someone would
use a table saw to perform an operation that is better performed by a
purpose designed and built machine that is task specific for one
operation".

Having tried to cut 21/2" crown on a table saw, it sent me running
back to my miter saw. I needed stain grade work, and I was unable to
see how to cut one degree, or a half degree off with the table saw to
close a hair line crack in a joint. OK, some clarification he it
wasn't on a shop built cabinet. It was in a house, where every
ceiling corner is a square as the framers framed it, and the tape and
float guys finished it. Each small piece of a corner may have to be
cut several times to get the right angle to compliment the out of
square corner.

You are obviously a proud defender of the table saw, and looking at
your site (good work, BTW) it is easy to see how important that tool
is to you. BUT FOR ME.... if there is a better tool for the job, I am
all over it. My carpentry jobs rely on speed and accuracy. I am to
start a crown molding job in a house in a couple of weeks. I won't be
taking my table saw to do the cuts. Sadly, I have a tendency to go
with the tool that does the job the most accurately with the least
fuss.

If you are comfortable with you saw, wooden jigs and calibration
equipment, why not?

But since DCH didn't post what size board he was using, how do we
know what the table saw is the best tool for the job? What if he
is cutting 4" or 6" wide material? Should he be using a table saw
and a homemade sled?

Certainly if that is the case, I would put any of my three miter
saws against his table saw and shop built jig.

I would take that challenge.

I see where this is headed. And if you believe that a wood jig can
take the daily rigors of use as well as a purpose built metal jig, all
I can say is "good for you".

Since I rely on my tools for my living, I like metal guides, rails,
beds, ways, and metal on metal adjustments. I am tasked with working
on site 99% of the time, and my tools are loaded and unloaded day
after day. Just the movement knocks them out of ajdustment
sometimes. If I worked in the closed environment of a shop and had
all manner of tools on hand like the TSA Jr, dial gauges, extended
reach calipers, etc., at my finger tips, I just might feel
differently.

As with me, you are certainly welcome to your opinion.

YM obviously varies...

Robert


soooooo....do you guys think a variation of way less than 1\128
compounded over five eight inch cuts would be close enought for a dude
in his garage trying to make some nifty things for his house and
freinds?

This sure is better than all the spam we been gettin as of late...